Lightning flashed in the distant horizon as the setting sun played light tricks with the clouds. Sitting alone on a balcony with nothing below me but ocean, I felt the crisp Caribbean wind cool the tropical air as the sails of the Royal Clipper captured the power of the wind.

Sailing on the world's largest -- and only -- five-masted ship built since 1902 allows such intimate contact with the elements. Though large enough to be luxurious, with faux wood in the cabins, three swimming pools on deck and an elegant dining room guarded by a circular staircase, the Royal Clipper offers travelers a decidedly different experience than larger and more traditional cruise ships.

"The big ships are like floating cities," said traveler Dennis Green of Summit Park, while sitting on the wooden deck of the big clipper ship. "They have got it so you feel like you are on solid ground. There are discos and places to tend the kids. This is a more intimate experience. It just depends on what kind of an experience you want. . . . Personally, I prefer this. You have more activities that I am interested in. The ports are smaller and less traveled. And, especially the first time, watching them sail is fun."

Still, the Royal Clipper and its sister Star Clipper ships might not be for everyone.

There is more of a feeling of being on the water on the Royal Clipper. When the wind is blowing and the ocean is rough, there is more rocking, making this huge sailing ship a problem for those prone to motion sickness.

The boat does not contain the big showrooms and casinos found on the larger cruise ships. And it would be virtually impossible for a person to come aboard in a wheelchair. There are no elevators and plenty of stairs.

"I like the fanciness of the big ships," said Shirley Jones of Midvale, a veteran of many cruises. "This is strictly casual. There is a bigger variety of food on a large ship."

Frederic Jansen, a cruise director on a recent Royal Clipper weeklong tour with stops in Barbados, St. Lucia, Iles des Saintes, Antigua, St. Kitts, Dominica and Martinique, said clipper-ship travelers typically choose the ship first and then worry about the ports of call.

"People choose first for the sailing, then the good food and the water sports," said Jansen. "Ports-of-call priority are less of an issue. It is important that people get contact with the sea and the cruise that you don't have on a cruise ship. You become so close to all crew members."

The 439-foot-long Royal Clipper, just 4 years old, has a capacity of 227 guests, a far smaller number than traditional cruise ships. Because it is smaller, the clipper can dock in ports and near beaches that many of the giant ships avoid, making many of the ports of call a more intimate and authentic experience.

And the water sports that the cruise director referred to are a big part of the experience. Lifeboats double as tenders and, at nearly every port, offer a trip to a relatively secluded beach where snorkeling, water skiing and scuba diving add to the adventure.

Leaving port each day is a major part of the fun. With supervision from Capt. Jurgen Muller-Cyran and a soundtrack of dramatic music, many of the guests gather on the 18,940-square-foot deck to watch the crew work.

There are 42 sails on the big boat. (The ship sails under wind power between 20 percent and 25 percent of a typical Caribbean trip. More traditional engines power the boat the rest of the time and are also used to purify ocean water for use on the ship.)

Passengers are even invited to climb the mast to one of the crow's-nests high above the deck. They also can ride in the netting at the front of the boat where only rope separates them from the ocean below.

"The advantage [of a clipper ship] is that you are close with the daily work on board the ship," said Muller-Cyran, a 30-year veteran of the German Navy who sailed as a hobby before taking over as the head of the Royal Clipper. "You get to know more about sailing and navigation and how to run a ship. There is a close relationship between the captain and the passengers; I like to create a feeling of community and make people feel as though they are a part of the ship's daily life."

The captain also tries to create the feeling of being on a sailing ship of 150 years ago, only with all the amenities of a more modern vessel.

The Royal Clipper offers cruisers two outside bars and an indoor piano bar. Nightly entertainment is organized by crew members and might include a talent show or a Miss Royal Clipper contest.

Each of the nicely equipped cabins, which seemed slightly larger than on some of the other cruise ships I have been on, is equipped with a color television offering movies and a few cable news channels for those who can't entirely leave the real world back home. At night, a steward turns the bed sheets, leaves a couple of chocolates on the pillow and replaces any dirty towels.

The crew keeps the elegant ship spotless. It is not unusual to see a crew member using Brasso to polish brass handrails or even parts of the floor. Sitting one evening on one of two small balconies that extend over the ocean, I watched the crew put fresh oil on the wooden deck to protect it from the elements.

And the food, especially at dinner, is elegant, with a wide variety of choices for main courses, salads, desserts, soups and appetizers.

Salt Lake City passenger Tim Kelly enjoyed sailing on one of the Star Clipper line's smaller ships that also offer similar experiences and amenities.

"This is nice to look at, but I would much rather be on one of the smaller clipper ships," he said.%%If you go

The Royal Clipper sails in the Caribbean from October through April. Double occupancy cost begins at $1,445 per person for a seven day trip. Deluxe suites are priced at $3,645. Cost does not include airfare. For information on taking a clipper ship cruise, log onto http://www.starclippers.com.

Sea cruise

* Information: The Royal Clipper sails in the Caribbean from October through April. Double-occupancy cost begins at $1,445 per person for a seven-day trip. Deluxe suites are $3,645. Cost does not include airfare. For information on taking a clipper-ship cruise, log onto http://www.starclippers.com.