| Z'Tejas Redefines Southwestern Sizzle at Gateway | ||
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 03/08/2002 | |
| The scarcity of Utah restaurants billing themselves as "Southwestern" might give the impression that we don't care for that style of food. But the instant popularity of Z'Tejas Southwestern Grill predicts otherwise. This fledgling chain restaurant (14 and counting, in Arizona, Texas, California, Washington, Colorado, Nevada and Maryland) has been bustling with diners since its early December opening in Gateway. Curiosity about the newcomer brought in some of those diners, and it didn't hurt that Gateway was near all the Olympic action in downtown Salt Lake City. It's an impressive launch, even though some of the food tastes formulaic. If the success of the owners' other Salt Lake City eateries is any indication, Z'Tejas is here to stay. (Co-owner Paul Fleming is a partner in Fleming's steakhouse, also in the Gateway, and was a founder of the popular P.F. Chang's.) Design-wise, there is a resemblance between Z'Tejas and its cousins: exposed kitchens, lots of windows, large fixtures. Z'Tejas is carpeted, which helps keep the noise down, and features Southwestern color accents -- blue, red and gold. It is obvious from the menu that "Southwest" is broadly defined here. Corn, beans, chiles and tequila are staples, but the menu includes a wealth of seafood plus such not-Southwest dishes as catfish beignets, gumbo and crab cakes. What matters is taste and, for the most part, the flavors at Z'Tejas are big without being spicy hot. It is hearty food, as you would expect with beans, rice, meats and cheeses, but in some cases, it is downright inventive. For the smoked chicken relleno ($8.95), a dark green poblano pepper is stuffed with smoked chicken, apricots, raisins and pumpkin seeds, and prettily garnished with a delicate roasted tomato cream sauce and a bolder green chile mole. The mildly flavored pepper is mostly a backdrop for the intriguing blend of flavors in the stuffing. It comes with the Z'Tejas signature black beans and corn-studded rice. Another example of big flavor: crab-stuffed shrimp ($15.95), coated with matchstick strips of corn tortilla and quickly fried. The shrimp look odd with all those tortilla sticks stuck on them, but the real surprise is the sauce, a heady concoction of blackberries and wasabi (Japanese horseradish) that contributes both sweetness and bite. Southwest meets Cajun in the Z'Tejas crab cakes ($8.25), chock full of finely chopped vegetables and a blend of mildly flavored crab and crawfish. Two sauces are served with the cakes, but the jalapeno tartar sauce outshines its competition, a sweet pepper mayonnaise. The cakes come with sweet cornbread baked in a mini-cast iron skillet, big enough to easily feed two people. The rich roasted-pork enchilada $8.75 comes dressed with an ancho chile sauce that adds depth but no heat. The only flaw was that it came to the table lukewarm, probably because the restaurant was operating at capacity that evening. The only other miss was the Caesar salad ($4.95). The greens were fresh but the dressing was tepid -- it tasted nothing of garlic or lemon. And fried tortilla strips are a poor substitute for croutons, even if they do fit in the Southwest theme. Most of the desserts are as heavy as the entrees: ancho chili fudge pie, peanut butter pie and cheesecake (all $4.95). Somehow, banana cream pie doesn't seem like a good idea after a roasted pork enchilada and a pile of black beans. Any Southwestern restaurant worth its salt serves a quality margarita and Z'Tejas doesn't disappoint. The bar stocks a good selection of premium tequilas and a menu of exotic margaritas. Although Z'Tejas doesn't take reservations, diners can call ahead and get their names placed on a waiting list. In our case, the capable staff accurately estimated when our table would be ready. With its unusual menu, Z'Tejas offers Salt Lake City diners fare they won't find elsewhere in a setting that is comfortable, casual but nice enough for a special occasion. Factor in service that keeps pace with bedlam and Z'Tejas becomes an attractive dining package. Z'Tejas 191 S. Rio Grande St. (in the Gateway); 456-0450 Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Liquor: Full bar, wine list Reservations: No Child's Menu: Yes Takeout: Yes Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: Yes (in warmer months) Parking: Validated valet parking on 200 South; underground lot Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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