| Bistro Toujours On Fast Track At Deer Valley | ||
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 09/28/2001 | |
| DEER VALLEY -- From the time he was a kid with an Easy Bake oven, Bryan Moscatello played with food. Whether it was making pasta with his Italian grandparents in New Jersey or cooking with his mother, a home economics teacher, Moscatello was never just an observer. It's one reason he went to cooking school for only a year, then finished his education on the job. "School is good to learn a lot of the classics," says the 32-year-old chef. "To a point, it gave me a good understanding of how things are done and why." Moscatello's "fun, American-style" interpretation of classic French cuisine is the main reason Bistro Toujours is one of Utah's best new restaurants. But there are others, including its setting in Deer Valley's new resort, the Chateaux at Silver Lake, an impressive wine cellar overseen by a staff wine steward and exceptional service. Dinner at Bistro Toujours requires an investment of time and money, but both will be well spent. Silver Lake Village, nestled in the upper reaches of the Deer Valley Ski Resort, is a complex of lodging, shops and restaurants. Bistro Toujours, operated by Levy Restaurants of Chicago, is the restaurant in the Chateaux, a French-themed inn filled with stone, fireplaces you could stand in and paintings by Utah artist Gary Collins (all of them for sale, although that would boost the price of dinner significantly). The restaurant is comfortably appointed in French country style, with warm wood, dark blue carpet that muffles noise and a mural depicting a picnic in the French countryside. A small butcher-block table in the center of the room is laden with cheeses, an edible focal point. If you have never had the chance to sample a cheese course, Bistro Toujours offers an excellent opportunity, not only to taste but learn. During our first visit, we ordered the six-course degustation menu ($59), which is intended to showcase a chef's range. The cheese course (also available as a dessert on the regular menu for $12) was a highlight because our server knew where the cheeses came from and how they are made, and could describe their texture and flavor. It was a culinary/geography lesson that used all five senses. While Moscatello can't take credit for the cheese, the seasonal degustation menu is an indulgent sampling of his take on classics. He serves a light shrimp bisque in a demitasse cup, complete with a tiny spoonful of diced and lightly cooked heirloom tomatoes. The Hudson Valley foie gras, a food that must be served in Heaven, was flavored with sweetened bacon and accompanied by a pastry cup filled with fruit compote. The roast veal chop came with a leek and sweet pea ragout infused with the flavor of Madeira. And after the cheese course, a cool terrine of melon with a hint of mint. The sommelier will pair wines with as many courses as diners wish and, if you have questions, will visit the table to describe the merits of one vintage over another. Moscatello, whose partner in the kitchen is Dominique Tougne, makes liberal use of fruits and vegetables, often in creative combinations. A salad of baby lettuce has grilled peaches and cherries, plus a slice of toasted sweet bread topped with a dollop of whipped Brie cheese ($10). His salad Nicoise, a staple of French cuisine, has the expected potatoes, green beans and boiled egg ($11). But its shape is structured, round and flat, and it is intensely flavored with a vinaigrette that is mostly lemon juice. The surprising garnish is a crisp, fried oyster. Entrees range from such comfort fare as a chicken breast coated with a sweet, garlicky glaze placed atop rich pastry "charlotte" stuffed with mushrooms and cheese ($19), to a 2-inch-thick round of rare tuna, dressed with cumin flavored oil and paired with a mushroom-potato cake ($28). Striped bass is served in its skin, fried crisp, and a rustic hash of shrimp, corn and potatoes ($21), while roasted pork tenderloin surrounds a rich sweet corn custard flavored with bacon and blue cheese ($24). Desserts ($8) have a heavy chocolate bias, from a flourless cake with vanilla ice cream and pistachio sauce to cake layered with ganache and toffee. Naturally, the classic creme brulee is also on the menu. Until the snow piles up, Bistro Toujours is open only for dinner. Once the ski season begins, the restaurant should be open for breakfast and lunch as well. Check operating times when calling for a reservation (and ask about the short cut through Park City). While good restaurants abound in Park City and Deer Valley, Bistro Toujours should have no problem keeping up, or even surpassing the competition. Bistro Toujours The Chateau at Silver Lake, 7815 Royal Street East, Park City; 435-940-2200 Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 6-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6-10 p.m. Prices: Dinner entrees from $18 to $29 Liquor: Yes Reservations: Recommended Child's Menu: Yes Takeout: Yes Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: Yes Parking: Street or underground lot Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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