| Sakura Sushi On a Roll In Compact SLC Space | ||
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 05/31/2002 | |
| Wherever Wasaro Katano goes, sushi happens. This Japanese-born restaurateur has been making sushi for 30 years -- first in Japan, then New York and Los Angeles, until, drawn by its mountains and low crime rate, he settled in Utah. Katano set up shop in Holladay, where he ran Sakura Sushi for 16 years. When he lost that space, Katano had no choice but to set up sushi shop someplace new -- a diminutive spot in a commercial cul de sac with a multi-ethnic flavor. With thriving French and East Indian restaurants nearby, Sakura Sushi's opening three months ago added even more spice to the neighborhood. While his new sushi bar is small, Katano maximizes the available space. A narrow counter runs around the prep area, so customers can watch their food being prepared. Half a dozen tables occupy the remaining floor space, and several more are squeezed onto the adjoining balcony. It's cozy, in the Japanese tradition, but not claustrophobic. The menu seems big, considering the size of the kitchen. Katano is able to work in minimal square footage because sushi is a relatively simple food, and fast. (Let's not forget that it tastes good and has the potential to be visually stunning, too.) The basic components are seasoned rice, cooked and raw fish, fresh vegetables, pickled ginger and the potent Japanese horseradish known as wasabi. All it takes is a rice cooker, condiment containers and a place to slice, dice and roll. The cooking area is big enough to make tempura and chicken teriyaki, which comprise most of the hot dishes. Sushi, which always involves rice seasoned with sweetened rice vinegar, comes in different shapes and sizes and shouldn't be confused with sashimi, which is sliced raw fish. Sakura Sushi has a good selection of both, including a menu of special rolls that Katano developed over the years. When he first arrived in Utah, Katano found that the traditional nigiri sushi (rice with raw fish) didn't appeal to some customers. But sushi rolls (called hosomaki or futomaki), which are rice wrapped around or topped with vegetables and/or cooked fish, were big sellers. Most people are familiar with the California roll, which is rice stuffed with avocado and crab (real or imitation). But specialty rolls are limited only by the chef's imagination. Katano came up with stuff his customers gobbled down, like the Mars roll, which is filled with shrimp tempura, crab salad, maguro (tuna) and avocado ($10.75). It's big enough to make a generous lunch for one person. His personal favorite is the Scorpion roll, rice wrapped around fried soft-shell crab whose claws stick out the ends, shrimp tempura, avocado and a dash of sake ($10.95). With its generous filling, this roll is fat and rather messy to eat. But what a delicious mess it is! At Sakura Sushi, diners can order sushi a la carte or in platters, which also include rolls. Or they can get sushi and sashimi combinations ($9.75 to $19.50), individual rolls ($3.60 to $10.95), or meals that include sushi, sashimi, salad and soup. There are a lot of choices, which can be confusing for novices. But the menu has helpful translations and descriptions of what is in the rolls, and servers can answer most questions. A sense of adventure helps when ordering sushi, because a lot of the ingredients are unfamiliar. Honestly, how many of you have sampled sushi with hot flying fish eggs? You don't know if you like it until you try it. For variety, try the sushi and sashimi box ($16), a good-sized tray filled with a California roll, five pieces of sushi, seven pieces of sashimi, seaweed salad, tamago (Japanese egg omelet), inari (soybean curd) and a bowl of soup. Another good sampler, especially for people who like raw fish, is the sushi and sashimi combo ($19.50), which includes a California roll, seven pieces of nigiri sushi and seven slices of raw fish (halibut, salmon and tuna). All of the raw fish was fresh, a critical requirement, and only one piece was poorly trimmed. Sushi chefs can be obsessive about their rice, cooking it just so and mixing it properly and to the right temperature so that the grains will form a roll but don't clump. Sakura Sushi doesn't achieve perfection in its rice, but people who don't insist on that standard will be happy with it. People who love tempura can find it at Sakura in appetizer and entree sizes ($5.75 to $12.50). It had a faintly oily flavor, but the shrimp were large and fresh and the vegetables (sweet potato, green beans and broccoli) were crisp-tender. With five shrimp and half a dozen vegetables, the appetizer is a great value. Service at Sakura is friendly but inconsistent: food comes out in no particular order and sometimes servers don't know who has which table. Chopsticks are always provided, but you will have to ask for a fork and your own plate if you don't want to eat off the plate the food is served on. Plan on paying with cash or a credit card, because checks are not accepted. A dine-in, early-bird special ($8.75 for chicken teriyaki, California roll, salad and soup) is offered daily from 5:30 to 7 p.m. Sushi fans who live in Sakura's new neighborhood will find it a convenient and pleasant place to dine in or takeout, while Katano's loyal customers will no doubt be willing to travel for those hot flying fish eggs. Sakura Sushi Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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