DEER VALLEY -- In its 22 years, Deer Valley Resort's reputation as chic, exclusive and first-class has never wavered. It has consistently rated among the top ski resorts, if not the top resort, in annual ratings by Ski magazine. And in the subject of on-mountain cuisine and service, Deer Valley hasn't given up the No. 1 spot for several years.

So it should come as no surprise that the resort's newest dining venture -- the Royal Street Cafe, replacing McHenry's at the mid-mountain Silver Lake Lodge -- is yet another gem within a dazzling gastronomic repertoire.

Whether you enter Royal Street Cafe from the slope side or streetside, where validated parking is offered below the lodge, it is immediately warm and inviting, with roomy booths and comfortable circular banquettes attended to by a gracious international wait staff, and windows that showcase snow-covered mountains.

It doesn't take long to realize that, as spectacular as the scenery is, the visual feast inside is equally dazzling. Consider, for example, the shrimp and lobster margarita ($9). It arrives as an elegant parfait in a stemmed glass with bites of fresh lobster and shrimp layered between guacamole and papaya salsa. It is served with seasoned tortilla strips for dipping and more efficient sharing, though eating it by oneself would be understandable, too.

Like many of the cafe's "first course" offerings, the margarita doubles as a perfect apres-ski choice, which also include crispy flat bread topped with Gruyere and Emmentaler cheeses and a layer of sweet, caramelized onions ($7), or lettuce wraps with Asian-cured duck confit and glazed cashews ($9).

The Royal Street menu features a couple of holdovers from McHenry's: the favorite cheeseburger, made with beef, turkey or a garden burger topped with sauteed mushrooms and onions ($10); and a cup or bowl ($5 and $8) of the popular turkey chili. (As The Salt Lake Tribune's former food writer, I frequently received requests for that well-guarded recipe, which prompted the resort to sell a commercially packaged Deer Valley Turkey Chili mix.)

But as good as the chili is, made with black beans, fresh corn and plenty of tender turkey, go the couple extra bucks for some of the best lobster chowder I have ever tasted ($7 and $10).

Any of those options are delicious and could probably fill you up, but then you would miss out on some of Chef Chuck Norris' most spectacular offerings, for both eyes and tastebuds.

Besides the regular menu, specials are offered at every lunch and dinner, including a Hawaiian fish of the day, served with Thai-style udon noodles, grilled pineapple and lemongrass broth. The price varies depending on the fish, be it pink salmon or hapu'upu'u.

A highlight of one recent visit was a seared salmon napoleon. It was a layered showpiece, with stir-fried vegetables and Asian slaw between wonton crisps, topped with the seared salmon filet decorated with white and black sesame seeds. The contrasting flavors of sweet plum-ginger sauce and hot wasabi cream were a perfect complement.

Rib fans shouldn't miss the jalapeno-lime baby backs, which are deliciously spicy, but not too hot ($14). While they arrive with a moist finger cloth, it wasn't needed on our visit, as the meat was so tender, it literally fell off the bones and was better eaten with a fork. If jalapenos don't set well with you, the ribs can be ordered with a honey-lager barbecue sauce.

Deer Valley's desserts and pastries always have been spectacular, created during the past 14 years by pastry chef Letty Halloran Flatt. From chewy snickerdoodles to a tart frozen lemon meringue pie with raspberry sauce, her desserts -- served in all 10 of the resort's eateries -- can almost be guaranteed delicious. Several are available daily at Royal Street Cafe.

One of the best things about Royal Street and its "new American cuisine" is variety. Whether you hunger for a traditional Caesar salad or hamburger or something more innovative -- maybe a roasted game hen and shiitake mushroom pot pie with a mashed potato crust, or spinach, goat cheese and smoked tomato enchiladas -- the choice is there. Likewise, there is a wide price range, so while you easily can spend a Park City bundle enjoying appetizers, daily specials and some of the cafe's fine wines, you also can dine and be sated for as little as $15.

Nancy Hobbs is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Hobbs welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at nhobbs@xmission.com

Royal Street Cafe