| Rib Alley: Industrial-Strength Barbecue | ||
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 04/05/2002 | |
| Good food turns up in the most unlikely places. Who would think of looking for classic Southern cuisine in a stylish historic building surrounded by trucks, chain-link fences, railroad tracks and freeways? But here is Rib Alley, beckoning in the middle of an asphalt lot in an industrial zone of Salt Lake City, as unexpected as mint juleps at a Sunday ice cream social. Rib Alley is a longtime dream come true for businessman Jimmy Reynolds and his extended family, including daughter Denise Austin, a partner in the venture along with husband Ike Austin, former member of the Utah Jazz. The building, which is listed on the National Historic Register, was purchased several years ago, but was used mostly as a place to park spare family vehicles. As downtown expanded west with development of the Gateway shopping mall, Reynolds figured the time was right. He remodeled the two-story brick building, which housed a beer distributor at the turn of the century, and told his daughter the place was almost ready to open. Austin, about to move back to Utah to the house she and Ike kept throughout their moves with the NBA (Ike was recently released by the Memphis Grizzlies and is now playing in Europe), recruited interior designer Connie Whiting. Whiting came up with a hip purple/brown color -- its modern look is a visual counterpoint to century-old elements of a building that wears its age well. The large, open dining room has a wall of original brick and a wood ceiling that looks as old as it is, but adds charm and texture. A separate room houses the bar, outfitted with counter seating and an arrangement of overstuffed pieces. The atmosphere is laid-back and family-friendly. When Austin is on duty as hostess, she sometimes brings her 7-year-old son to work with her. Reynolds, the tall man in the chef's jacket, oversees the kitchen. Reynolds' parents are from Arkansas, and most of what Rib Alley serves is a version of his family recipes. The menu isn't large, but what's there is rib-sticking, tasty and Southern, from fried chicken and catfish to black-eyed peas and collard greens. It's a lot of food for the money, especially if you measure in calories. Rib Alley's barbecue sauce is sweet and slightly tangy, adding a hint of chili flavor to ribs, slow-cooked barbecued chicken and brisket. Dinners come with corn bread and a choice of two side dishes, adding up to a lot of variety. (Here's a practical problem for all you math whizzes: With five entrees and 11 side dishes, how many times could you eat at Rib Alley and never have the same plate twice?) The hefty spare ribs and sliced beef brisket are delicious, tender and mostly lean, bathed in that succulent sauce. The half-order ($9.95 with two side dishes) would be more than enough for most people -- these are huge, meaty ribs. Only the stoutest appetites should attempt to best the full rib order ($17.95). Then again, these ribs reheat well, which is a good argument in favor of takeout. If Southern means "fried" in your vocabulary, then sample the chicken and the catfish. Both have a thin, crisp crust with a delectable salty flavor. The catfish is farm-raised and mild-flavored, and is a large fillet ($10.95). Chicken comes in quarters ($8.95) or halves ($11.95). One of the best ways to sample all Rib Alley has to offer is to go with a group and order platters, which offer a sampling of meats and sides for $36 to $45. All dinners come with house cornbread, a slightly sweet and fine-crumbed version of this Southern specialty. Side dishes ($1.75 to $3) range from a spicy version of collard greens, studded with chunks of ham hock and heated with a dash of cayenne pepper, to candied yams made with so much sugar they darn near have a crust. The hush puppies, balls of fried corn meal, have a wonderful onion flavor, and the black-eyed peas are a straightforward carbo-load. Kids who want their own plate can choose from a rib or a chicken leg with fries and a drink ($2.95). Both desserts are traditional and excellent: a homemade peach cobbler done in a pie crust, seasoned lightly with cinnamon and served with ice cream ($3.75), or a rustic sweet potato pie that looks and tastes like a vegetable ($2.75). It might even be good for you. Both are available whole, the cobbler for $25 and the pie for $9.95. Service at Rib Alley matches the ambience, relaxed and friendly. The restaurant has only been open for just under two months, and there are nights when food is a bit slow coming out of the kitchen. This is especially true of the fried chicken and catfish, which aren't cooked until ordered. Our server warned that it would take 12 minutes for the chicken, but it was nearly twice that. Still, it was worth the wait. Rib Alley is an oasis in the industrial desert. Salt Lake could use more like it. Rib Alley * 533 S. 500 West, Salt Lake City; 359-9926 * Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 2-10 p.m. * Prices: Entrees from $7 to $18 * Liquor: Yes * Reservations: Large parties only * Child's Menu: Yes * Takeout: Yes * Wheelchair Accessible: Yes * Outdoor Dining: No * Parking: On site lot * Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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