| Venerable Red Iguana Still Has Some Bite | ||
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 08/10/2001 | |
| In the 15 years since opening on a West Side block of North Temple, the Red Iguana has gained a cult-like following. How else to explain why people with other things to do would wait on a sidewalk for up to 50 minutes for no-frills Mexican food? This modest cantina serves consistently good grub (most of it anyway), but the food itself doesn't rate a 50-minute wait. There is something else at work here, a comfort level that stems from 15 years of same-family ownership. The menu hasn't changed much, neither the warren of small, crowded rooms and crazy-colored walls, and some of the servers have been delivering Iguana plates (enchilada, chile relleno, taco, rice and beans for $9.85) for years. It's the kind of place a guy can walk into 30 minutes after closing and still get an order of "killer nachos" because his pregnant wife has a craving. Ramon and Maria Cardenas trace the ancestry of their restaurant to a place called Casa Grande, which they opened in 1965 on 300 West in Salt Lake City. Red Iguana was launched in its present site in 1986. Most of the recipes were Maria's; in her hometown of Chihuahua, she was a partner in a catering business. The couple managed one restaurant and owned another in San Francisco before moving to Utah. (Cardenas' success led him to start another restaurant, the Blue Iguana, which he no longer owns due to a series of events he sums up simply as a "long story.") The Cardenases are now retired, although Ramon is in the Red Iguana nearly every day. The couple's son, Ramon Jr., does the cooking while grandson Antonio is manager. The most recent interesting change at the Red Iguana is the return of hard liquor, gone since Cardenas relinquished the license eight years ago because of unspecified "management problems." While the bar is being fully stocked, the restaurant is serving margaritas in addition to a selection of Mexican and domestic beer. Ramon Cardenas says the family, looking ahead to the 2002 Olympics, applied for a liquor license to stay competitive, although the place is regularly mobbed. During the noon hour and peak dinner hours, waits are common, aggravated by a lax wait list system. Go early or late to avoid standing in line on the sidewalk. Once you're in, the next difficult task is choosing from Red Iguana's menu. There are the usual suspects: enchiladas, tacos, tostadas, burritos, flautas and chile rellenos, served in all sorts of combinations. The servings are generous and hot, with flavorful sauces and fresh vegetable garnishes. Prices are reasonable, ranging from $5.95 for the killer nachos (topped with chile verde chorizo, a spicy sausage) to $10.60 for the Red Iguana plate with an enchilada, beef taquito, flauta, chile relleno and tostada, with a fistful of guacamole and sour cream added for emphasis. But there is more adventurous fare, including a selection of exotic moles made with chiles, fruit, nuts and sometimes just enough chocolate to add color and richness. The red pipian mole is mildly spicy, made with pumpkin seeds, delicious with chunks of tender chicken ($10.95). Rice and refried beans are served on the side. Our encounter with the mole coloradito ($10.95) was not as positive. The sauce wasn't bad -- tangy and smoky, with a sour bite -- but the pork was overcooked to the point of toughness and didn't seem fresh. The other letdown was a dish billed as a house special, Pollo a la Moreliana ($10.95). This large plate of chicken and rice isn't impressive: too much saucy rice (although the sauce is delicious) and cheap cuts of chicken, legs and a wing. A better special is enchiladas a la lago salada, two corn tortillas filled with spicy chorizo and potatoes, topped with fresh cream and an avocado slice ($7.25). It comes with a lettuce "taquito," a piece of iceberg lettuce filled with a surprise of wonderfully rich chicken salad. There aren't many surprises at the Red Iguana, which is something its patrons appreciate. They come for "killer" Mexican food and, for the most part, they get it. And that's the whole enchilada. Red Iguana 736 W. North Temple, Salt Lake City; 322-5418 Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 9 p.m. Prices: $5 to $20 Liquor: Yes Reservations: No Child's Menu: No Takeout: Yes Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: No Parking: Adjacent lot Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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