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Pistol Pete's Mexican Bistro Is Blazingly Fast, Affordable | |
| By Nancy Hobbs |
04/04/2003 | |
| When it comes to Mexican food, Pistol Pete's is a rebel, unwilling to cook like all the others. The differences may be what makes this outlaw a survivor, although first impressions could create confusion. Tucked off Fort Union Boulevard, Pistol Pete's Mexican Bistro looks like an ordinary restaurant. The "bistro" implies it is similar to a pub -- an impression easily reinforced by a marquee that advertises three TVs for sports enthusiasts. None of this is quite true. Diners quickly discover the restaurant is more fast-food than sit-and-be-served, though it's a little of each. A microphone-adorned cashier takes orders at the counter, repeats them to the kitchen staff behind her and collects the money. After you choose a booth along the windows (or a table for better television viewing), an employee delivers drinks (nothing stronger than Jarritos soda pop), returning soon afterward with your food. Other than being a little unexpected, given the restaurant's outward appearance and moniker, there is nothing wrong with the system. It is quick and efficient, and once owner Wally Peterson explains that he and business partner Phil Arlt used to own dozens of Wendy's restaurants throughout Utah, it makes sense. The partners sold most of their franchises back to the corporation, but still own three in St. George. Of course, food is the real draw or flaw of a restaurant, and Pistol Pete's unique variations are welcome fare. Pete's Favorite, also known as "The Pistol," is a thin patty of ground chuck deep-fried between two corn tortillas, garnished in the center, as usual, with lettuce, cheese and tomato. Other taco varieties, including steak, chicken and fish, are offered on soft or deep-fried corn or flour tortillas, "however the customer wants it," Peterson said. Enchiladas are served "Arizona-style," or the way Peterson ate them growing up in the Grand Canyon State: with flat, soft tortillas, rather than rolled. If you order "chips" for $3, what you get is five flat corn tortillas, deep-fried and sprinkled with a not-too-hot chile powder, along with a side of pico de gallo, full of fresh tomatoes, sweet peppers, onions and cilantro, and a side of "mesa" beans. The beans, which also come as a side dish with full meals, are tender black beans, slightly mashed and well seasoned with garlic and onion. The beans are especially good mixed with Pistol Pete's green chile rice, which is how they are served in many of the "burros," or extra-large burritos, also filled with steak or chicken, lettuce and cheese. Choose from any or all of the restaurant's four salsas, in varying heats, to season your meal. Whatever you order, quantities are generous, especially for the price. To facilitate carting home leftovers, Peterson said, everything is served in takeout packaging. It is a sign of success and good value, he feels, for customers to be seen leaving with cartons. With prices starting at $3 for a taco (which includes tax; $6 for a meal with rice and beans), Pistol Pete's is definitely reasonable. The most expensive thing on the menu is the shrimp taco meal for $9, which is served with battered and deep-fried butterflied shrimp, cut up and served in a double soft-shell tortilla and garnished with cabbage, cheese and a creamy salsa-based sauce. If you like seafood tacos, the fish taco made with cod fillets is the better choice at about half the price. Pistol Pete's Mexican Bistro is casual and inexpensive, with fast-food service of tacos, burritos and enchiladas that are out of the ordinary. -----
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