|
|
The cozy Paris Bistro oozes neighborly charm on 15th and 15th | |
| By Nancy Hobbs Special to The Tribune |
3/05/2004 | |
|
SALT LAKE CITY -- Neighborhood diners that have members of the surrounding community to thank for much of their charm always seem to be the friendliest.
And it is the Emerson Heights neighborhood -- the area radiating from the 15th and 15th (south and east) intersection of Salt Lake City -- that gets a lot of credit for making The Paris work. When owner/chef Eric DeBonis bought the corner structure that once housed a grocery and drug store, he sought to turn it into a warm retreat, reminiscent of a bygone era, where families and friends could gather and enjoy a satisfying meal. If they could walk from home to the restaurant along tree-shaded sidewalks, all the better. While I had to commute in from my not-so-quaint suburban neighborhood, I enjoyed watching others through the bistro windows as they walked their dogs and pushed strollers. Inside, the bistro is a treat as well, with beautiful wood paneling, small antique-looking lamps between each linen-covered booth, attractively set tables and a polished wait staff, dressed in black with crisp white aprons. At the far end of the dining room is a striking buffet on which glassware and plates are stored. It is a piece DeBonis purchased at an antique store and learned it had been a jewelry case built by Salt Lake Mill in 1910 for The Paris department store. "Serendipity took its course and about three weeks later I found another one -- identical," DeBonis said. It was adapted to display the liquor behind the grill's classic bar, and the two pieces together helped clinch the diner's name. Our dinner in the elegant dining room began with a complimentary amuse: a tasty eggplant and caper purée, dubbed eggplant caviar, served like bruschetta on a small piece of bread. The bread itself is delicious, with a perfect texture inside a good chewy crust. (It is delivered daily by Vosen's Bread Paradise, and is sold by the loaf at The Paris, as well as at the downtown bakery.) That was followed by the day's special appetizer of gravlax served on a potato pancake about the size of a cracker, topped with a bit of creamy cheese and pinch of caviar. The melding of flavors was superb. The house salad ($4.95), made with baby greens and a welcome addition of pumpkin seeds is nice, but even better is The Paris Salad, with goat cheese, candied pecans and lots of thin slices of Granny Smith apples with the greens, all dressed with a mustard vinaigrette ($8.95). The variety of entrée options on The Paris menu is inviting, with reasonably priced wood-oven pizzas; several pasta choices; meats that include steaks, duck and chicken; and a limited, but delicious selection of seafood, including a tender sole meuniere ($17.95) and, though we haven't tried it yet, an intriguing napolean of diver scallops, leeks and caviar ($21.95). We did try several of the pasta dishes between our dinner in the bistro and a subsequent visit to the grill side, and of all, the butternut squash ravioli was an easy favorite ($12.95). The filling was scrumptious -- savory and not sweet, topped with a delicious sauce flavored with parmesan and sage, and the perfect complement of coarsely chopped roasted hazelnuts. (Less pleasing was the tagliatelle bolognese ($14.95). Although the pasta tasted incredibly fresh and the sauce was light, I didn't care for the sausage, which had a sour, almost gamy flavor.) Also exceptional was the slow-roasted lamb shank, served on a bed of delicious vegetables that included diced carrots, onions and whole garlic cloves ($23.95). Here, the piece de resistance was the single roasted fig crowning the shank, which itself was cooked to tender perfection. The side of mashed potatoes were buttery and delicious. Friendly and exemplary service added to enjoyable experiences in the bistro and in the grill, which is just through the open threshold to the south. Called the Zinc Bar & Grill, it is more casual, less expensive and more lively, with the open kitchen and bar adding to the activity, as well as the noise level. Much of the menu is the same, but also available are The Paris cheeseburger, with Maytag blue cheese and bacon, a Reuben sandwich; and fish tacos -- some of the items that were popular at lunch, before DeBonis decided he wanted to concentrate on dinner service only. A nice feature in the grill is the weekly three-course special, which includes a salad or soup, that week's selected pasta and dessert for $14.95. DeBonis said several changes to the grill side are under way this month to give it even more vitality. The tablecloths are coming off, a large community table that seats 14 is being custom-made, and tapas are going to be a special emphasis during the early evening hours. The concept is to invite customers to sit at the community table and converse with neighbors over tapas and a beer -- or even a milkshake. Hopefully they won't mind if some of us, jealous for a welcoming and cozy neighborhood joint of our own, drop by on occasion. ----- Nancy Hobbs is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Hobbs welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at nhobbs@xmission.com
The Paris Bistro & Zinc Bar
|
||
