SUMMIT PARK -- You might expect a diner named No Worries to be thematically based on the Australian outback. In the case of the small café in Summit Park, the Aussie connection is only tangential.

Kangaroos or koalas are absent in the decor, which is decidedly Western and canyon-comfortable (including the nicest restaurant coffee mugs I've come across, made by Summit Park pottery guru Bruce Larrabee). You also won't find lamb or kiwis on the menu. But the owners do live Down Under, where they recently returned to cure a case of homesickness.

That gave chef Dante Eggan an option to subcontract the operation, which he did less than three months ago. And while he still caters to the casual diner attracted by the "no worries" promise, he himself has stepped up the commitment a notch or two. No closing shop for the day, even if golf does sound more appealing, he said. (Apparently finding the doors locked and kitchen cold during "open" hours was a frustration before Eggan took over.)

"I just want people to know that, like the sign says, we're open six days a week, from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., and even if they show up five minutes early or five minutes late, they can get something to eat."

The consistency seems to be paying off, as Eggan reports that in the last 10 weeks, business at the café has doubled. He has adopted a new breakfast menu, and is revising the lunch menu to include, among other offerings, variations for "50 ways to customize your burger."

For now, Eggan runs a three-person operation, with himself as cook, a dishwasher and one server. But if business picks up much more, that won't be enough. On the couple of occasions we were there, the service was good, but our waitress was stretched pretty thin with half or fewer of the tables occupied. With a full house -- close to a dozen and a half tables, including the three umbrella-topped tables outside -- service could become an issue.

One of the biggest assets of No Worries, Eggan has found, is its "perfect" location midway between Salt Lake and Park City, at the summit of Parleys Canyon (just east of the gas station off the Summit Park exit of Interstate 80). He gets customers traveling both ways, particularly with events like this weekend's annual arts festival on Park City's Main Street.

Sundays, with breakfast served until 2 p.m. (other days until noon), Eggan said the place is packed from open to close with Summit Park locals who migrate off their slopes for a Hack Attack (ham, spinach, tomatoes and lots more served over sliced, fried potatoes, then topped with eggs and hollandaise, $7.50) or Dante's Inferno (sirloin tips, hot Italian sausage, veggies and cheese served "frittata style" with hollandaise, $8), two of the house favorites.

Also popular is Dave's Skillet, a small mountain of "browns" -- the cafe's signature sliced and fried potatoes -- mixed with hot Italian sausage, lots of onions, mushrooms and garlic, all topped off with scrambled eggs and cheese. A side of rich, freshly made hollandaise sauce adds a few more calories and cholesterol points, but when you order a breakfast like this, who's counting?

Ditto with Dante's biscuits and gravy ($6). The two tall, fluffy biscuits are covered with thick and delicious country gravy, served with mild sausage patties and eggs cooked to order.

Lighter breakfasts are available, including pancakes and French toast, and even a couple of "healthy" offerings: oatmeal with raisins, or fresh fruit with yogurt and granola.

Lunch at No Worries is more popular during the week, and anything that comes with a side of the cafe's huge, homemade onion rings has that bonus going for it. We loved the cafe's generous cheeseburger ($7), and the halibut sandwich ($7.50) was good, although the bun didn't seem quite up to the task, lacking in both taste and texture.

The day's soup, what our waitress called New England clam chowder, was aptly named, having elements of both the Boston and Manhattan versions, as well as some of its own. It was delicious and slightly spicy with rice, tomatoes, onions and, of course, clams. Eggan said he also frequently makes what he calls Dante's Seafood Chowder, which sounds similar with the addition of halibut, shrimp and more spice.

Somewhat surprisingly, given its limited lunch hours, the cafe offers wine by glass or bottle, as well as a good variety of low- and high-octane beers.

No Worries is a pleasant, relaxing stop for a filling, reasonably priced breakfast or lunch. Just a reminder: Never on Mondays.

Arts festival kick-off: Speaking of the Park City Arts Festival, why not kick off the 34th annual event with a restaurant and gallery stroll Friday evening? More than two dozen arts galleries will serve hors d'oeuvres tonight from 6 to 9 p.m., while the city's many fine restaurants dish out their specialties from a table said to run the length of Main Street. Gallery stroll guides are $5 at the Kimball Art Center; restaurant tickets are an additional cost. Call the Kimball Art Center, (435) 649-8882, for more information.

Bambara celebration: Bambara restaurant, in the heart of downtown Salt Lake City at 202 S. Main St., is celebrating its fourth anniversary next week with the debut of new chef Robert Barker's premiere menu and several dining specials. From Monday through Friday, dinner guests may order a four-course dinner for $44, which includes tax and gratuity. Featured desserts, cocktails and wine by the glass will be available for $4, as will an order of the popular house potato chips with blue cheese. Anniversary lunch specials will also be offered daily.

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Nancy Hobbs is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Hobbs welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at nhobbs@xmission.com

Dining Out

No Worries Café & Grill