Over the years, Metropolitan has won plenty of accolades to perpetuate its reputation as one of Utah's finest restaurants, honored yearly by the Distinguished Restaurants of North America, the AAA Guidebook, the Mobil Guide to America's Best Restaurants and Salt Lake Magazine.

Clearly, it is a superior restaurant, but its competition has grown stiffer over the years, to the point that, yes, it is still expensive, but no more so than other fine-dining spots. That came as a surprise to a group of friends who joined me at Metropolitan recently, all for a first-time visit. The restaurant's reputation had scared them off, though all regularly dine out at equally pricey locales.

And reputation being what it is, there were lofty expectations -- perhaps too high -- of what the Metropolitan should be. Service, for example, was commendable, but not extraordinary: Salads were misplaced, but quickly sorted out; there were lengthy waits for cocktails, and later dessert, although the restaurant was sparsely occupied.

Service on a return visit, as a party of two, was excellent, however, and complemented by an equally impressive meal.

Between the two visits, we tried several of Metropolitan's appetizers, which range from beef carpaccio ($12) and seared foie gras ($16) to one ounce of caviar, varying nightly in kind and price, but served with cr�me fra"che and a poached quail egg.

The wild mushroom ragout ($12), Chef Adam Findley's visually stunning starter that is pictured on the restaurant's Web site, is a special treat. It is a cylinder made of thinly shredded and crispy fried potatoes, filled with a mélange of mushrooms in a delicious sauce, identified on the menu as a "parsnip truffle emulsion." Less satisfying, though pretty to look at, was the $14 artisan cheese selection, with tiny bites of cheese arranged on a platter and decorated with more dried fruits than cheese.

Soups and salads are served a la carte, and favorite among all of them on our visit was the luscious ginger carrot soup, creamy and savory, with a touch of natural sweetness ($9).

Dinner entrées are a nice mix of seafood, meat and meatless, and over our visits we tried almost all of the eight choices on the current menu (with seasons changing, so likely will the menu).

The poached grouper ($26) was especially tender and slightly sweet, nicely complemented with a garlic and lemon sauce and sautéed wild mushrooms. The highlight of the sautéed black bass dinner ($26) were the vegetables on which the fish was served, including terrific smoked tomatoes and braised artichoke hearts, all with a red wine reduction that is so good, you won't want to miss a drop.

The seared Utah elk ($30) was a crowd pleaser, cooked to a perfect medium-rare for a tender and flavorful meal, all the better with a side of black truffle potato risotto.

And we couldn't pass on the free-range pork chop, especially enticing when offered with goat cheese mozzarella grits and fried green tomatoes ($24). The tomatoes weren't green, but even though they were ripe, they were good. The grits, a favorite dish at home, were a little too bland for my liking. I prefered the lemony quinoa -- a grain similar to couscous -- that accompanies the Arctic char, a tasty fish fillet reminiscent of salmon ($24).

A restaurant's ambience can elevate a meal, and Metropolitan's contemporary elegance is apparent from the moment the dapper maitre d' greets customers at the door. High ceilings are attractively finished with wood lattice and metal trusses, and modern dividers made of metal and wood partially separate the dining room from the restaurant's bistro and bar that sit just inside the streetside windows.

Linen-covered tables fill the dining room, but each is given plenty of space, lending a more private, relaxed feel as the wait staff, all wearing crisp shirts and long white aprons, move among the tables.

Metropolitan is the kind of restaurant that most diners relish for special occasions: birthdays and anniversaries, important clients to impress, a job promotion.

Though generally reserved for those splurges, here is a new excuse to visit the Metropolitan: It is one of 33 restaurants participating in the Downtown Alliance's Dine O'Round promotion that begins today and runs through Sept. 21, which means diners can order a three-course meal for $25, excluding tax and tip. If you are among the many who have been deterred by Metropolitan's reputation for busting the bank, this is an opportunity to experience Chef Findlay's impressive cuisine, and the restaurant's comfortable elegance, at less than the usual cost.

(Although Metropolitan generally is closed Sundays, owner Karen Olson has opted to have the restaurant open for the next two Sundays in keeping with the dining promotion.)

Z'Tejas Chile Festival

Pork chile verde, roasted chicken chile rellenos and jalape-o margaritas are on the Z'Tejas menu next week as part of the restaurant's "Chile Festival," featuring more than 1,000 pounds of fresh chiles being shipped in from Hatch, N.M.

The festival begins Tuesday with the new menu items and half-price appetizers at the Gateway restaurant, and ends with Big Chile Saturday featuring a hot sauce/salsa making contest and a jalape-o pepper-eating contest. Call 456-0450 or visit http://www.ztejas.com for more information.

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Nancy Hobbs is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Hobbs welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at nhobbs@xmission.com.

Metropolitan