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McGrath's Is Most Catchy When It Keeps Things Simple | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 05/17/2002 | |
| Anyone who has eaten a fish just minutes after catching it knows that less is more when it comes to preparation. It takes a certain amount of restraint to let the subtle flavor of fish come through in the cooking. But that is the one thing some restaurant kitchens cannot manage, perhaps because the chefs believe the dining public really doesn't like fish and wants it crusted, sauced or mixed with other stuff so it tastes more like chicken. What else would possess someone to treat white fish like beef, as in halibut Oscar? That question came up during dinner at McGrath's Fish House, a small restaurant chain that is a relative newcomer to the Utah market but already can be found in Sandy and the Gateway shopping center in downtown Salt Lake City, with another location to open this summer in Layton. Desert-dwelling Utahns love their seafood, as well they should -- it is a good source of lean protein and beneficial oils -- and it is delicious, to boot. McGrath's halibut Oscar concept didn't work, as the sauce sent the fresh flavor of the fish down the drain. Fortunately, McGrath's overdressed fish dishes are just a fraction of its large menu, which also includes a wealth of fresh seafood prepared more simply. Compared with other national fish chains in Utah, McGrath's offers better quality at reasonable prices. A dinner of halibut fish and chips, with a good portion of well-battered fish and fried wedges of potato, comes with salad or cole slaw and bread for $9.99. It is quite a bit of food, nicely prepared, for not much money. And for fish-phobics, the menu also features steak, prime rib, burgers and chicken, plus a selection of salads that can be ordered with or without fish and chicken. McGrath's has the look and feel of a family restaurant: it is large and comfortable, with lots of fishy dcor accents: cool historical photos, totem poles, creels, fishing poles and mounted fish. The booths are cushy and spacious, the lighting is bright enough to read the menu and most of the rooms are quiet enough for conversation. The one exception is the bar, which is outfitted with soundless, ceiling-mounted televisions. The noise comes in the form of bad Muzak, played much too loudly. McGrath's fresh fish selections change daily, as does the way the kitchen prepares them. The halibut Oscar was among the daily specials (which normally range in price from $12 to $16); on that same day, there was a "blackened" snapper done Creole style, with sausage, green peppers and a tomato sauce. It didn't taste much like snapper (and didn't appear to be blackened), but it made a saucy topping for pasta. One more dish that tried to be something it wasn't: chunks of grilled seabass served with large, whole pea pods that diners could wrap in butter leaf lettuce and dip in a potent sesame-ginger sauce. It was a lot of work and messy to eat. But after all that labor, the result was a taste of crunchy pea pods and a sock-it-to-me sauce that obliterated any flavor of bass. McGrath's best fish is prepared so it tastes like fish, even when other flavor elements are part of the dish. Halibut stuffed with salmon mousse, another daily special, was a good example. The mousse tasted like salmon, but it didn't dominate the halibut. And the rich lemon-dill sauce complemented both fish. Steamed mussels in a garlicky tomato broth succeeded for the same reason. It was a good-size serving of shellfish, enough for two people to share as an appetizer, with a sauce seasoned lightly enough to bring out the full flavor of the mussels. The grilled bread that came with it, however, wasn't nearly as good as the sourdough served with every dinner. Pan-fried oysters, from McGrath's oyster bar and a menu staple, are another winner. Plump and meaty, they are delicious with just a squeeze of lemon and really don't need the tartar sauce ($6.99 for six). Every dinner comes with a garden salad of mixed greens, tomato, sliced carrot, purple cabbage and big croutons; a choice of potatoes, rice or pasta; and a mix of steamed cauliflower, broccoli and squash that doesn't do much more than fill up the plate. The service is friendly and efficient, but there are so many items on the menu and it changes so frequently that servers may be of limited help in making recommendations. McGrath's has a relatively short wine list that offers enough choices to meet most diners' needs, but whoever is pouring the wine should know better than to send out two glasses with noticeably dissimilar quantities. One thing that makes McGrath's attractive has nothing to do with food: Since it is on the southeast corner of the Gateway, diners can park on the street and avoid the mall's parking structure, which gets my vote as the worst design in the city. That option makes even more sense when you discover the restaurant doesn't validate, although the first hour in the underground lot is free. The restaurant doesn't take reservations, but offers "phone ahead seating," which allows diners to call and have their name added to the waiting list. That may shorten the wait, but it's no substitute for reservations. McGrath's Fish House Gateway Plaza, 190 S. 400 West; 456-7890 -- Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. -- Prices: Dinner entrees from $7 to $30 -- Liquor: Full bar, wine list -- Reservations: No -- Children's Menu: Yes -- Takeout: Yes -- Wheelchair Accessible: Yes -- Outdoor Dining: No -- Parking: Street, underground lot -- Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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