|
Market Street Broiler Gets a Fine Face-Lift, But Side Dishes Need One, Too | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 12/28/2001 | |
| Here's a recipe for an interesting restaurant: take one historic fire station, put a kitchen and counter seating in the truck bay, and turn the firemen's upstairs quarters into what looks like a yacht cabin. Sound like an odd mix? In fact, the nautical remodeling of the upstairs of the Market Street Broiler and Fish Market is a vast improvement over the restaurant's original design. The acoustics and the floor plan are better, and there is more seating. The Broiler can now hold 260 people on both floors, with the patio accommodating another 100 diners during warmer months. The downstairs of the 19-year-old Broiler got a minor face-lift, too, with some new wood paneling. The top floor underwent a major transformation, with the addition of a striped mahogany and beechwood floor, buttresses between booths, windows that look like portals and a ceiling covered in canvas that resembles boat sails. The serving area that once squatted in the middle of the room is relocated to the west end of the floor, improving traffic flow and freeing up valuable table space. In short, this makeover is stunning. Of course, beauty isn't everything. Diners want good food, too. And here's where the Broiler could use another minor makeover. The fish menu is outstanding in variety and quality -- no other restaurant in town can touch it, except for owner Gastronomy's other fish houses. But the side dishes are boring: rice or potatoes and a blend of such vegetables as carrots and green beans. Gastronomy's food formula is starting to taste like one. Diners who are paying $22 for orange roughy deserve more than boiled potatoes that are cooked al dente. The addition of such touches as seasonal produce doesn't seem likely, given the success enjoyed by Gastronomy, which owns nine restaurants and private clubs in Salt Lake City. But we can hope. In the meantime, here is what you can expect from the Market Street Broiler: a well-stocked fish market, a good selection of fresh fish, soup or salad with every meal and good bread. The menu also includes a short menu of steaks and ribs, but who goes to a fish house for ribs? The fish menu features classics, as well as some creative treatments. For true luxury, try the eight-ounce lobster tail or Alaskan red king crab legs (both $27.99), served with drawn butter for dipping. The fish and chips, made with fresh halibut, is another well-done standby ($14.99), as is the clam chowder, which is thick, creamy and nicely seasoned with a generous dose of pepper. For something more unusual, sample the meaty Pacific swordfish ($19.99), served with a butter sauce flavored with sun-dried tomatoes. The only problem is that this potent sauce literally smothers the fish. A better option would be serving the sauce on the side, so diners could do their own smothering. Another good choice: broiled ahi tuna flavored with a slight sweet, sesame ginger sauce ($22.99). Servers are trained to ask diners how they want the fish cooked; traditionally it is served rare. But "rare" at the Broiler in our experience resulted in a nearly raw piece of fish, more like sushi. That wasn't the only glitch. On both our visits, servers failed to deliver ordered menu items: french fries that weren't quite ready with the hamburger ($6.99) and onion straws ordered as a side dish ($1.99). In addition, the service pace was slow both times from start to finish, as if the staff was spread too thin. If that is the case, servers are getting the short end of the stick because they are friendly and accommodating: when we had to wait for a table past the 6:30 p.m. cutoff for the early bird special ($15.99 for fried shrimp, salmon, halibut or top sirloin, served with soup or salad, rice or potatoes and ice cream) our server gave it to us anyway. And when we left a handbag at the table, she ran after us into the parking lot to return it. If staffing isn't the problem, then more training is in order. The Broiler has enjoyed nearly two decades of success, built on its reputation for quality fresh fish. This well-planned remodel could be the start of another 20 years of good dining. It also seems like an opportune time to kick things up a notch. How about giving diners something more to look forward to than potatoes? Market Street Broiler and Fish Market 1360 Foothill Drive Salt Lake City UT (801)583-3267 Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 4-9 p.m. Prices: Dinner entrees from $7 to $50 Liquor: Yes Reservations: No Child's Menu: Yes Takeout: Yes Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: Yes Parking: On-site lot and street Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
||
