|
Lemon Grass: Cool Space for Hot Curry, Other Thai Treats | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 07/12/2002 | |
|
David Chaisomboon's evolution as a chef began on an orchid farm in Thailand, where his family also grew herbs used for cooking and folk medicine. His knowledge of Thai flavorings was subsequently put to use in New York City, where Chaisomboon worked in the restaurant business as a cook and a manager, training with one chef who cooked for the queen of Thailand whenever she visited. Thirteen years ago, Chaisomboon moved to Utah to attend Brigham Young University, where he earned a degree in finance. When the time came to start his own restaurant, he recruited an associate from his New York restaurant days who, he says, "shares his passion" for food. Maybe Chaisomboon has the right stuff to grow Lemon Grass in Salt Lake City, because downtown could use a good Thai restaurant. And Lemon Grass, owned by Chaisomboon and his partner, Thai-born Nisakorn Sukhawisit, is a nice addition to the city's family of ethnic eateries. Lemon Grass opened in early April, in a space that has seen many restaurants come and go. The former tenant was a steakhouse done up darkly in wood booths and red upholstery. The colors remain, but the window coverings have been 86'd to provide better natural light. With the addition of Asian-inspired paintings and other decorative objects, the décor works pretty well. Spacious and cool, Lemon Grass is a comfortable place to enjoy a meal on a hot summer day. And what could be better than a spicy curry to bead the brow and help the body's natural cooling process? The Lemon Grass menu offers a generous selection of traditional dishes, from curries and fried noodles to banana fritters with green tea ice cream, and some that have been adapted to American tastes, like a curry dish with salmon. The food is fresh, colorful and served quickly by Sukhawisit and her staff, who are happy to answer questions and seem always to be smiling. If you like Thai food, add Lemon Grass to your list of places to visit. If you never have experienced Thai food, this is a good place to start. The menu contains helpful, even lyrical, descriptions of entrées that range from the familiar stir-fried noodle and tofu dish called pad thai ($11.99) to pad him ma parn ($13.99), a wok-fried mix of vegetables, meat and roasted cashews that is called "the perfect choice for maintaining serene and unblemished taste buds." Serene taste buds aside, pad him ma parn is a delicious, slightly sweet dish full of bright vegetables -- baby corn, scallions, onions, carrots and nearly black peppers that are very hot but can easily be avoided. Like most Lemon Grass entrees, this one is big enough for two people to share. But the best way to eat this food is to order several dishes and pass them around the table. Thai cooking is a lot like Chinese fare, in that most dishes offer meat or fish and vegetables bound by some sort of sauce. But the seasonings set them apart, with Thai food flavored with basil and lemongrass, tamarind and sweet coconut milk. Sweet-sour tamarind, the fruit of a native Asian shade true, flavors one of Lemon Grass' most exotic dishes, woon sen pad thai ta lay ($17.99). It is made like an omelet, with a filling of white fish, scallops, shrimp and mussels in the shell, all mixed with glass noodles, bean sprouts, green onions and smoked tofu. There is a lot going on in this dish, but the fascinating mix of flavors will leave no doubt you are tasting another culture. Even if you think you don't like coconut, order the panang curry ($12.99), a blend of your choice of chicken, beef or pork (especially good) with potatoes, carrots, onions and peanuts, all bathed in a thick sauce of coconut milk and green curry. Curry adds energy while the coconut milk adds subtle sweetness and a wonderful texture. Most of the curry dishes at Lemon Grass are warm enough to cause a slight flush, but diners can order as much heat as they wish. Peanuts are another common Thai flavoring, ground up in sauces to add texture and flavor to such dishes as rama chicken ($12.99), an interesting blend of steamed spinach, leaf cabbage and white meat. Appetizers are a must here, including the delicious fried calamari ($9.99), rings of squid with a mild flavor and a firm, slightly chewy texture. At Lemon Grass, squid is served without the tentacles, with a sweet chili sauce for dipping. One excellent option for sampling more than one appetizer is a combination plate that offers chicken and beef satay, fried spring rolls, wontons stuffed with imitation crab and pot stickers stuffed with chicken ($12.99). It comes with four sauces for dipping and makes a nice dish to share with a crowd. Lemon Grass complements its food menu with a decent selection of wines, imported and domestic beers and Thai coffee, tea and cream soda. Thai beer is the perfect way to moderate the heat of a curry dish. Sticky rice is a staple in Thai cuisine, of course, and is served in an ornate silver-colored bowl that is commonly used to leave rice for monks at Thai temples. While it comes with every meal, it also makes an appearance at dessert, in kea neaw ma moung ($6.99), a seasonal treat made of rice, coconut milk and sugar and topped with sliced ripe mango. It is an interesting finale, although some diners might consider it rice overload at that point. Next time, I might order it to take home for breakfast. Banana fritters, wrapped in wonton skins and quickly fried then drenched in a honey sauce, are another fascinating finish, especially when they come with green tea ice cream ($5.99). It isn't made at Lemon Grass, but Chaisomboon considers it the best of the commercially prepared tea ice cream he has sampled. It is sweet but has that unmistakable tea tang. It's worth trying once, at least. With their restaurant backgrounds and business degrees, Chaisomboon and Sukhawisit should know what it takes to keep a new restaurant afloat. With food and service flourishing, Lemon Grass is growing well in Salt Lake City. Rusted Sun Pizzeria 327 W. 200 South, Salt Lake City; phone 596-1778 Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-10:30 p.m. Prices: Dinner entrées from $10 to $19 Liquor: Wine and beer Handicapped Accessible: Yes Reservations: Yes Takeout: Yes Outdoor Dining: Sidewalk tables Kid's Menu: No Parking: Street Credit Cards: All major cards. Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
||
