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Juhl Haus Beefs Up Its Exotic Offerings | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 08/17/2001 | |
| When Anna and John Juhl purchased the Cheese House in Foothill Village last February, they came up with a meaty idea: what the deli needed was more steaks, pork chops, lamb, bratwurst, salami and pate to complement its impressive selection of cheeses. But it couldn't be just any meat. It had to come from Iowa, the Juhls' home state and home to John's livestock-farming relatives. When the couple moved to Park City, they found they couldn't live without the Iowa-raised beef, pork and lamb they enjoyed for so long. They began importing it for themselves. But others who tasted the Iowa meat wanted it, too. So the Juhls started a direct-delivery business that led them to buy the Salt Lake City shop, which they renamed the Juhl (say "jewel") Haus Market and Deli. The name is apropos, as Juhl Haus is a treasure trove of gastronomic exotica. They sell perhaps a couple hundred cheeses -- from cheddars and blues to anise and lavender goat cheese, sheep's milk cheese from Corsica and Humboldt Fog from Oregon. The market shelves hold lavender honey from Spain, piccalilli and chutney from England, oatmeal from Ireland and pickled walnuts from the United Kingdom. Of course, imported food doesn't come cheap: a jar of English Morella cherry preserves rings up at more than $8. While they beefed up the meat selection, the Juhls expanded the menu of ready-to-go food, adding more and bigger sandwiches, a changing selection of entrees such as salmon fillets, ribs and chicken cutlets, vegetable and pasta salads and desserts made in-house by the deli's new pastry chef, Adelberto Diaz. The Juhls plan to eventually make their own bread, but for the moment they rely on two excellent Utah bakeries, Vosen's and Volker's. In addition to the Iowa meats, including steaks aged for 21 days, the Juhls stock more than a dozen varieties of Wisconsin-made German bratwurst, plus custom sausage made with two Squatters microbrewed beers, Pale Ale and Oatmeal Stout. (The Squatter's brats will debut during the deli's grand opening party, which began Thursday and continues today and Saturday, from 7:30 a.m. until closing.) All this expansion led to a very full haus, which means there isn't a whole lot of room for dining. Half a dozen tables are squeezed into the front end of the deli and several more occupy the sidewalk. Much of the deli's trade is catering and takeout, but there is enough room for a casual, quick lunch, or coffee and pastry in the morning (the deli opens at 7:30 a.m.). Sandwiches, most priced around $5.25 and generously sized (another expansion), range from a conventional turkey to a foccacia with grilled onions and provolone. The turkey sandwich offers basic, quality ingredients -- fresh meat, lettuce and tomato on a large, crusty roll. More adventurous tastes will be rewarded with the likes of sliced chicken, layered over cream cheese spread with raspberry pepper jelly and served on Vosen's walnut bread. We paired this inspired creation with a side dish of sweet potato salad, an interesting combo of chunk potatoes, pineapple and celery. It was sweet but tangy, a nice complement to the sandwich's jelly. Salads are priced from $5.99 to $8.99 per pound on the a la carte menu, but it would be nice if chips were included with sandwiches for diners who don't want a salad. Our second visit was on a Saturday, when the Juhl Haus offers a sidewalk barbecue with beef or lamb burgers and grilled bratwurst. With the grill in the parking lot and salads and drinks inside, placing an order can be confusing. Order first with the grillmaster, then go inside to choose the rest of the meal. You can't go wrong with either the lamb burger or the brat (sauerkraut is among the condiments), although the burger has a moderately strong lamb flavor. Pastries range from a puff pastry with vanilla cream and a strawberry (not enough cream filling) to an excellent chocolate mousse served in a pastry shell and elaborate layer cakes flavored with bourbon and layered with raspberry or lemon cream. The lemon squares are incredible for something so ordinary. If you've been to Europe and wish you could go again, Juhl Haus may soothe your craving. If getting there is a lifelong dream, this deli will certainly feed your fantasy. If all you want is good food, add Juhl Haus to your list of places to score. Juhl Haus Market and Deli 1336 S. Foothill Drive, Salt Lake City, 582-7758 Hours: Monday through Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.; Saturday, 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Prices: Entrees from $5.25 Liquor: Beer Reservations: No Children's Menu: No Takeout: Yes Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: Yes Parking: Large lot Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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