|
Greenhouse Effect A Sunny Blend Of Coffee, Crepes | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 05/10/2002 | |
| Maybe it's magic, or perhaps it is a lot of caffeine, but Jon Venevia and Joe Ballata have a hit with their new neighborhood joint, the Greenhouse Effect. This coffee shop/creperie transcends its humble setting in a small bungalow set back from the street near a busy commercial corner. The two young men took what they know and love and created a feel-good place, from the funky paint job to jazz, reggae and classical music and the neighborhood recycling bin out back. On top of all that, they make a mean crepe. "There's kind of a magic about this place that things just happen," says Venevia, 27. Example: They were looking for commercial property when they happened upon the bungalow, which had enough space for the recycling bin and parking in the rear and was set back enough from the street to allow for a nice-sized deck. After choosing paint colors for the interior they "started going crazy with it" and ended up with boldly colored walls and a sky on the ceiling. Being committed environmentalists, they called their place the Greenhouse Effect as a tribute to the phenomenon that sustains life on our planet. (Sunlight heats the Earth, gases in the atmosphere trap the heat and warm the air.) But while we need the sun and the atmosphere to survive, we also need food and drink. That naturally translated into coffee and crepes. Venevia and Ballata met in Phoenix, where Ballata was working in Venevia's father's French restaurant. Crepes were a menu staple. Venevia says the recipe has been in his family for three generations and that he has been making crepes since he was a tot. They ended up in Utah because they snowboard. Venevia supported himself by first working in a Park City restaurant, then making crepes on a mobile cart in front of Salt Lake City nightclubs and finally in a tiny place in Trolley Square. When he decided he needed more exposure, he and Ballata went searching and the magic happened. The place is tiny: inside there are just four tables, with the patio holding three more, larger ones (a few smaller tables would be a nice addition). The menu isn't much bigger, with half a dozen savory crepes and several sweet ones, and a good selection of coffee drinks and chai. Diners order at the kitchen counter, get their own coffee from a nearby table (soft drinks and juice are in the cooler) and take a seat. The crepes are delivered in short order. There are no garnishes or appetizers or salads or soups. It's just crepes, but they are classic -- slightly sweet, golden brown, crisp around the edges and tender on the inside ($4.25 to $5.75). Savory fillings range from scrambled eggs and ham to diced dark meat chicken flavored with spicy Thai seasonings and enriched with melted cheese. The California model holds chicken, tomato and basil, while the vegetarian comes with tomato, sliced mushrooms (canned), cheese and a garlicky pesto to slather on top. Sweet fillings range from classic Nutella (a hazelnut spread popular in Europe) with sliced bananas and whipped cream, to a crepe filled with crushed strawberries and topped with cream. These are big and filling crepes, substantial enough for breakfast, lunch or a late-night snack. Greenhouse Effect is open early until late every day, including the Sabbath, because crepe and caffeine cravings can strike any time. Until recently, Salt Lake has offered few alternatives to national coffee shop chains. That is changing as local caffiends open late-night coffee houses with personality and good food. Greenhouse Effect is a welcome addition to that select group. Bring an appetite, along with newsprint, plastic, steel and aluminum cans and cardboard for the recycling bin out back. Greenhouse Effect 3231 S. 900 East, 483-0885 * Hours: Daily, 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. * Prices: Crepes from $4.25 to $5.75 * Liquor: No * Reservations: No * Child's Menu: No * Takeout: Yes * Wheelchair Accessible: Yes * Outdoor Dining: Yes * Parking: In the rear * Credit Cards: Visa and MasterCard Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
||
