| The Formosa Grill has been open for a year, but business is just
now beginning to pick up, according to owner Barbara Chen.
After contending with road construction and the reputation of the building's
previous occupant, Chen said, ``For the longest time, this place felt like it
was jinxed.''
That's a shame, because Formosa offers fresh, reasonably priced
food. The place is spacious, clean and well-lit and has several
private rooms with floor seating.
Plastic plants and Japanese lanterns are the main decorative accents, but
an indoor fountain at one end of the restaurant provides pleasant
background noise.
Formosa's menu is not as extensive as some Chinese restaurants',
although Chen and her husband, Jack, plan to expand it. In addition
to traditional
Chinese
dishes, Formosa serves tempura and teriyaki, a concession to loyal customers
of the former occupant.
The tempura was a generous selection of shrimp, plus slices
of carrot, sweet potato, onion and squash, all lightly battered
and fried ($6.95.)
It arrived
later than the other dishes because it is prepared from scratch once
the order is placed.
You will have to wait for the pot-stickers or Chinese dumplings,
too, but they are worth it. Each order ($4.75) included eight
dumplings, fried
or
steamed.
They were tender and delicious.
Other starters include egg rolls (two for $2.50), fried chicken
wings ($4.25), and paper-wrapped chicken ($4.50).
A short selection of soups sounds enticing, especially the
house soup ($5.75 for two) with chicken, scallops, shrimp and
vegetables.
Entrees include poultry, seafood, beef, noodles and fried rice.
The garlic chicken ($6.75) had large tender chunks of chicken,
plus crisp
broccoli,
carrots, water
chestnuts and bok choy in a spicy, garlicky sauce. For a milder
but filling dish, try the Formosa pan-fried noodles: shrimp,
beef, chicken
and fresh
vegetables
blanketing lightly browned noodles. Both reheated nicely the
next day.
Formosa does not have a liquor license. Beverage selections range
from tea to soft drinks.
Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper
covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there
is no connection
between reviews and
restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news,
comments and suggestions at awilson@sltrib.com or by mail,
c/o Salt
Lake Tribune, P.O.
Box 867, Salt
Lake City, UT 84110.
Formosa Grill
- 2115 E. 2100 South, Salt Lake City, 461-0661
- Hours: Monday
through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday, 11:30
a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; and Saturday, 4:30
p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
- Reservations: Accepted
- Liquor: No
- Prices: Inexpensive to moderate
- Credit Cards: Visa and
MasterCard
- Wheelchair Access: No
- Child's Menu: No
- Takeout: Yes
- Pluses: Fresh, affordable food
- Minuses: No liquor license
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