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Formosa Grill: Fine Tempura Is Worth a Brief Wait
BY ANNE WILSON
THE SALT LAKE TRIBUNE
04/10/1998

The Formosa Grill has been open for a year, but business is just now beginning to pick up, according to owner Barbara Chen.
After contending with road construction and the reputation of the building's previous occupant, Chen said, ``For the longest time, this place felt like it was jinxed.''

That's a shame, because Formosa offers fresh, reasonably priced food. The place is spacious, clean and well-lit and has several private rooms with floor seating. Plastic plants and Japanese lanterns are the main decorative accents, but an indoor fountain at one end of the restaurant provides pleasant background noise.

Formosa's menu is not as extensive as some Chinese restaurants', although Chen and her husband, Jack, plan to expand it. In addition to traditional Chinese dishes, Formosa serves tempura and teriyaki, a concession to loyal customers of the former occupant.

The tempura was a generous selection of shrimp, plus slices of carrot, sweet potato, onion and squash, all lightly battered and fried ($6.95.) It arrived later than the other dishes because it is prepared from scratch once the order is placed.

You will have to wait for the pot-stickers or Chinese dumplings, too, but they are worth it. Each order ($4.75) included eight dumplings, fried or steamed. They were tender and delicious.

Other starters include egg rolls (two for $2.50), fried chicken wings ($4.25), and paper-wrapped chicken ($4.50).

A short selection of soups sounds enticing, especially the house soup ($5.75 for two) with chicken, scallops, shrimp and vegetables.

Entrees include poultry, seafood, beef, noodles and fried rice. The garlic chicken ($6.75) had large tender chunks of chicken, plus crisp broccoli, carrots, water chestnuts and bok choy in a spicy, garlicky sauce. For a milder but filling dish, try the Formosa pan-fried noodles: shrimp, beef, chicken and fresh vegetables blanketing lightly browned noodles. Both reheated nicely the next day.
Formosa does not have a liquor license. Beverage selections range from tea to soft drinks.

Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at awilson@sltrib.com or by mail, c/o Salt Lake Tribune, P.O. Box 867, Salt Lake City, UT 84110.

Formosa Grill

  • 2115 E. 2100 South, Salt Lake City, 461-0661
  • Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; and Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
  • Reservations: Accepted
  • Liquor: No
  • Prices: Inexpensive to moderate
  • Credit Cards: Visa and MasterCard
  • Wheelchair Access: No
  • Child's Menu: No
  • Takeout: Yes
  • Pluses: Fresh, affordable food
  • Minuses: No liquor license