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Huge Wine List Adds Sizzle to Fleming's Steaks | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 01/04/2002 | |
| The steakhouse is a classic concept: serving thick, well-marbled meat in a dimly lit, clubby setting with such traditional mates as baked potatoes and sauteed mushrooms. How to improve on a classic? Marry one classic to another. Fleming's, a chain that originated in Newport Beach, Calif., recently took up residence in Salt Lake City's Gateway outdoor shopping mall as a steakhouse wine bar. Paul Fleming, originator of P.F. Chang and Z'Tejas (two national chains that are also represented in Salt Lake City) and his partner, Bill Allen, offer their meat-loving diners 100 wines by the glass, an unprecedented listing for this liquor-controlled town. No menu, especially one dominated by red meat, needs that much wine. But choice is a powerful lure. Fleming's combines that with quality food and attractive decor, so it's easy to see why this chain has been branded a "hot concept" in the restaurant industry. Choice doesn't come cheap: the average cost of a dinner at Fleming's is $45, and it's easy to spend more. Fleming's is beautiful, done in warm colors with cherry-colored wood, suspended lighting that cast a sunset glow and deep red upholstery. Even when the restaurant is full, conversation is easy and the background music is identifiable. The kitchen is visible, but at the back of the room, set apart by a half wall. The only part of Fleming's that isn't comfortable is the tiny foyer, which isn't designed for crowds of waiting people. Solution: make a reservation. The a la carte menu offers a couple-dozen entrees, dominated by steaks and chops but including a chicken dish and several seafood items. There is a good selection of appetizers, salads and side dishes, enough to make a meal for any diner who eschews meat. The food menu is dwarfed by the wine list, which is organized by varietal (type of grape) and ranked by flavor intensity. Most of the wines are American, many of them recognizable vintners, but some lesser-known boutique wineries are also represented. A reserve list of 100 wines available only by the bottle features vintages from around the world. This much choice will be daunting to some folks, but servers are supposed to be familiar with the wine list and able to make recommendations. When asked to suggest a white and a red wine to drink with the appetizer crab cakes (a respectable rendition served with a red pepper-lime butter, $11.50) one server came up with a Honig sauvignon blanc ($8.50) and the Meridian syrah ($9.50). The Honig was the better choice. But that is the beauty of the restaurant/wine bar concept: you could go to Fleming's two dozen times and never drink the same wine twice. Diners can even order two-ounce samples at one-third the price of a glass to choose one to go with dinner. Fleming's prepares its beef well. The petite filet mignon ($21.95) and the 16-ounce New York strip came perfectly cooked to order on sizzling hot plates. Both were tender and flavorful. So was the pork chop ($18), nearly two inches thick but still juicy and tender, even after being sent back to the broiler because it was too rare. It comes with a sweet "jam" made of apples and vegetables. The charred salmon is good, too, presented in two fillets dressed with a cabernet butter sauce and garnished with crispy sauteed julienne leeks ($19.50). An appetizer of tender seared scallops ($9.95) is sauced with a spicy, orange-tarragon vinaigrette and includes a good-sized salad of mixed greens. Side dishes ($4.50 to $6.50) are ordered individually but are generous enough for three people. Fleming's potatoes are sinfully rich, simmered with cream, jalapeno peppers (for flavor, not heat) and cheddar cheese. The sauteed spinach is cooked to barely wilted in browned butter and red onions so its deep color is preserved. But it tasted mostly of butter and not of spinach. Equally rich are the Lyonnaise potatoes, thick slices cooked in butter with sliced onions until they are brown and crisp, like breakfast potatoes. If beginning the meal with a salad, consider sharing The Wedge ($6.50), iceberg lettuce with tomatoes, red onions and crumbled blue cheese. Even split two ways, it is almost too much to eat. In fact, most of the portions at Fleming's are oversized, as well as calorically rich. But with a little willpower, you can hold the meal to a reasonable size by packing some of it home. Holding back on dinner saves room (but not calories) for dessert, which might be something like cheesecake, creme brulee or the apple "haystack" ($6.95), a giant scoop of ice cream topped with cooked apples, crisp "sticks" of pita bread and decadent caramel sauce. It sounded better in theory than in practice, perhaps because the apple mixture wasn't warm enough to melt the ice cream and the garnish of caramel sauce seemed stingy. After opening only a month ago, service at Fleming's is certainly above average, although kinks remain. On a first visit, we were halfway through our steaks before the wine was delivered. On a subsequent night, our server didn't wait for us to test the food before asking if everything was OK. When it wasn't (the chop needed more cooking), we couldn't get him back to the table. Fleming's has made an impressive start and shows promise of aging as well as its marbled meats. While the menu holds few surprises (who messes with classics?) a meal at Fleming's is as good as a steakhouse gets. All that wine is just gravy. Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar 20 S. 400 West (in the Gateway); 355-3704 Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. Prices: Entrees from $18 to $31 Liquor: Full bar, extensive wine list Reservations: Recommended Child's Menu: No Takeout: No Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: No Parking: Mall lot (use Winter Parking entrance on 400 West) or valet Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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