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Em's Moves Up to Capitol Hill, Uncorks Welcome Additions | |
| By
Nancy Hobbs Special to The Tribune |
05/02/2003 | |
| Emily Gassmann and Jennifer Jensen no doubt would have loved uncorking a bottle of bubbly for dinner guests in celebration of their new liquor license at Em's Restaurant last week. But after waiting months to secure the permit, there was no way they would bend any rules that might put it in jeopardy. In fact, the owners (and chefs) of Em's, which moved recently from downtown Salt Lake City to the Capitol Hill neighborhood, have walked on eggshells trying to appease state liquor commissioners while simultaneously trying to appease customers who wanted a beer or glass of wine with lunch or dinner. The liquor dilemma has plagued Gassman since she opened her first restaurant on the corner of Pierpont Avenue and 400 West more than four years ago with the intention of serving wine with dinner. "Nobody knew I was 25 feet too close to Pioneer Park" until her request for a liquor license was denied, said Gassmann. Now, in the renovated Center Street Market that Gassmann bought with her former sous-chef, Jensen, they quickly are discovering that liquor makes a huge difference to the bottom line. Em's has been open for lunch for a couple of months; it opened for dinner three weeks ago, taking reservations for the opening a couple of weeks before that. But when opening night came around and diners discovered that Em's request for a liquor license had not been approved, more than half the reservations canceled. Two nights after Em's license was approved, the restaurant was so busy diners had to be turned away. And every table, without exception, has ordered wine with dinner, Gassman said. The reason: Em's offers the kind of gourmet cuisine that begs for a wine pairing. EntrŽes such as the incredibly fresh and perfectly poached halibut topped with parmigiano reggiano, or salmon roulade stuffed with fresh leeks and served on a bed of creamy cabbage ($14), were delectable by themselves, but would be well-complemented by a glass of sauvignon blanc or pinot gris. We also tried the red-wine braised short ribs with mashed potatoes, enjoyed to the last bite with luscious, dark gravy ($16). The melding of wonderful, fresh flavors is Em's strong suit. We started with the day's flatbread appetizer: focaccia topped with sweet caramelized onions, artichoke hearts and melted havarti cheese ($5), and an incredibly creamy asparagus soup that was broth-based and purŽed to richness. The house dressing -- a common balsamic vinaigrette -- is uncommon in its extra sweetness, thanks to high-quality vinegar. Likewise, garnishing the salads with wide, freshly grated shards of premium parmesan makes even the house salad special. You can taste the extra care in such details. Em's serves lunch six days a week, and the restaurant gets crowded. With summer almost upon us and patio furniture due to arrive any day, there will be more space for hungry diners -- and a need for more wait staff. Our lunch visit took quite a bit longer than anticipated, which won't do for business folk on limited lunch breaks. Our waiter apologized more than once for the delay and said the unusual backup was due to a particularly large take-out order. Even so, our meals were wait-worthy. An order of goat-cheese tamales appeared looking like a gift. Who could imagine tamales could look so pretty, beautifully wrapped and even tied at the end with a bow made from the husk? The cheese was spiced with chile powder, and the chipotle-laced cream served on the side gave additional zip. At lunch, the tamales come on a bed of black beans ($7.50); at dinner they can be ordered, sans black beans, as an appetizer for $7. Also delicious was a wild mushroom flan, akin to a crustless quiche, served with a salad of baby greens and the balsamic vinaigrette. Em's desserts are a treat, from the raspberry crme brulŽe ($5) to a chocolate pudding cake ($6) delivered warm from the oven and gooey inside. Homemade ice creams and sorbets are offered daily. The Capitol Hill community already has embraced Em's, and the new patio, with its terrific view of the Oquirrh Mountains to the west, is sure to be draw even more diners. In light of that, reservations are recommended for dinner, and not a bad idea for lunch. Em's Restaurant
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