|
|
'Laissez le bon temps rouler' at Crescent City Beignets | |
| By Nancy Hobbs Special to The Tribune |
7/25/2003 | |
|
SANDY -- Jambalaya. Gumbo. Étouffée. They all say "New Orleans," but not quite as sweetly as "beignet." Beignets are the sweethearts of N'awlins' French Quarter, and teamed with a hot, strong cup of cafe au lait and the morning newspaper, there isn't much better for breakfast. Beignets are deep-fried pillows of leavened dough, generously sprinkled right out of the fryer with powdered sugar that just begins to melt for a light frost of sweetness. Some compare them to doughnuts or Utah scones, but done right, they are better: not as sweet as doughnuts and lighter than scones. The only place I knew of that offered beignets in Salt Lake closed a couple of years ago, so I was excited to visit the new Crescent City Beignets at 7835 Highland Drive. I was even more intrigued to see that the cafe serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, including several classics synonymous with New Orleans. I was skeptical about ordering crawfish étouffée at a fast-food counter. And I was even more dubious when the woman ringing up our order handed me a heavy white mug in which I was supposed to get my own cafe au lait, premade and dispensed from a machine. I was pleasantly satisfied with both. The étouffée ($6.45) had a good amount of shellfish, and the rich sauce was nicely spiced, but not overly so. (Authentic Louisiana Tabasco on every table gives those with higher heat thresholds the means to bump up the temperature of their meals.) Also tasty was the jambalaya ($4.95), a mix of seasoned rice in a tomato base with bell peppers, onions, spicy andouille sausage and chicken. The Creole dishes come with a couple of piquant hush puppies, cooked so they have a nice crispness enveloping the soft cornbread center. Muffuletta sandwiches are a popular breakfast after a late night of partying in New Orleans, but they are equally tasty for lunch, with ham, salami, provolone and olive salad -- the defining ingredient -- grilled on a sesame roll ($5.75; $3.95 for half, which is quite large). The cafe's wide variety of hot and cold sandwiches, from "The Big Cheesy" or Creole pecan chicken salad (both $5.45) to PB&J or grilled cheese for kids ($2.95 each), come with potato chips and a small cup of purple cabbage coleslaw with a delicious, slightly sweet dressing. But back to the coffee and the beignets. Mike Jackson, co-owner and general manager, explained that the coffee, blended with chicory in the traditional New Orleans style, is fresh brewed, double strength, and mixed with steamed whole milk. That mixture goes into a specially designed dispenser that keeps it plenty hot, but also stirs it to prevent scorching or separating. The result is delicious and, as promised, the perfect accompaniment to Crescent City's terrific, cooked-as-you-order beignets. Jackson and fellow owner Hersch Patton hope to expand the franchise (they have bought rights from the Houston-based company for eight cafes in northern Utah) and eventually to add catering and sales for office meetings. That is the idea behind the "jumbo" 96-ounce cafe au lait ($12.95) and beignets by the dozen ($8.55). Besides regular take-out, Crescent City Beignets offers its Creole dishes by the quart, priced from $13 to $17. Teamed with salad -- either the café salad with its delectable vinaigrette dressed up with Dijon mustard, Parmesan and blue cheeses or one made at home -- it's a quick, easy solution to dinner. ----- Nancy Hobbs is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Hobbs welcomes news, comments and suggestions at nhobbs@xmission.com.
Crescent City Beignets
|
||
