The first thing visitors should know about Carl's Cafe is posted prominently on the front door to avoid misunderstandings.

If you don't have cash or check, don't bother stepping inside.

It's the way business has been done since the late Carl Wallace opened the cafe 25 years ago, and the way his former daughter-in-law Lisa Wallace, who now co-owns and operates the cafe, wants it to stay.

After all, why change something that has worked so well for so long? Likewise, why meddle with a menu of basic breakfast fare and more than two dozen sandwich choices that have attracted steady crowds for more than two decades?

The truth is, Carl's isn't "nouveau" anything, and that is one reason diners love it. If chic and trendy are your cup of chai, this is not the place.

Steak and eggs, eggs and bacon, deep-fried "Utah" scones, omelets any way you choose, and standard drip coffee is the fare for diners seven days a week, beginning at 7 a.m. and offered until closing, which is 1 p.m. on Sundays and 2:30 p.m. the rest of the week.

With fewer than a dozen small tables and a two-stool counter to accommodate diners, the queue starts forming early, especially on weekends. Fortunately the small wait staff is finely tuned for multitasking (coffee cups and water glasses were never empty), and the efficient kitchen sends meals out in quick succession.

Although there may be some guests who linger, turnover generally keeps up fairly well with new arrivals.
Take-out is an option for those who can't wait, and employees at businesses in or near the Hillside shopping plaza, where Carl's is, obviously take advantage of that at lunchtime by stopping in to pick up orders for a crowd. With so many sandwich choices, from egg salad ($3.05) and grilled cheese ($2.05) to a "Southerner" (turkey, Swiss, bacon and avocado for $4.25) or "Westerner" (quarter-pound mushroom cheeseburger, $2.80), there is likely something to satisfy everyone's palate.

At breakfast, Carl's omelets are especially popular and come with any two fillings for $4.85, which includes the cafŽ's delicious country-style hash browns (sliced, not shredded) and toast (a scone can be substituted for an extra 50 cents). A word of caution: Diners can choose from four cheeses, and if you don't specify, the kitchen's default choice is American, which I find gooey and tasteless. Cheddar, Swiss or feta are all better choices.

French toast or a "breakfast sandwich" of meat, eggs and cheese on a rosette bun also are popular for anytime breakfasts, but don't look for pancakes. "Our grill's just too small," said Lisa with an apologetic laugh. Given the everyday crowds, it is amazing the tiny kitchen can turn out all that it does, and in such quick order.

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Nancy Hobbs is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Hobbs welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at nhobbs@xmission.com

Carl's Cafe

• Where: 2336 E. 7000 South, 943-5138
• Hours: Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.
• Prices: $2 (hamburgers) to $10 (steak and eggs)
• Liquor: No
• Reservations: No
• Child's Menu: No
• Takeout: Yes
• Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
• Outdoor Dining: No
• Parking: On-site
• Credit Cards: No; cash and checks only