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Boondocks Transports Philippine Flavors to Quaint SLC Eatery | |
| By
Nancy Hobbs Special to The Tribune |
04/11/2003 | |
| Last weekend was especially busy for chef Manny Evangelista and his staff at Boondocks Pacific Grill & Cafe. Five blocks north, word had spread among returned LDS missionaries who had served in the Philippines that the small diner was "home away from home." Evangelista, a partner in Boondocks with his son, Welby, found the place swamped for lunch (which he serves six days a week) and at dinner (offered only on Friday and Saturday). Of course, it was a welcome surge, but Evangelista also seemed happy for the next week's more relaxed pace. Unlike regulars, who might not be in the know, weekend visitors no doubt noticed the carved wooden pineapples in the windows -- a traditional symbol of hospitality. It is a welcome sign, particularly if you have just experienced the one disadvantage of Boondocks' location: scarce parking. Both sides of 500 South have meters, but more than half of them are only 32 minutes; the others are for two hours, and there doesn't seem to be any logic in their placement. One is right next to the other, and it is sometimes difficult to tell until you pull in. Evangelista said he is trying to persuade the city to change all the meters to one hour, which seems like a good idea since the new library now borders 400 South and the patrons of businesses on 500 South, including several restaurants and attorneys offices, would be better served. Inside Boondocks, the tables are covered with Battenburg lace
cloths, and though they are topped with glass, the end result
is attractive rather
than tacky,
due in large part to their complement: high-backed mission-style chairs.
Bold colors -- each wall painted a contrasting hue -- add to the comfortably
casual
atmosphere. One of the most popular meals is pork or chicken satay, served with a tangy "Manolo" sauce made of tomatoes, pineapple juice and spices. The sauce, named for the seven generations of Manolos in Evangelista's family -- he being the seventh -- was good on our grilled chicken satay, but not enough to save the kebab from being on the dry side. I preferred the chicken and pork adobo, the national dish of the Philippine Islands. The adobo is made with more succulent dark chicken meat, as well as cubes of lean pork, potatoes, peppers and onions in a savory sauce tinged with coconut milk. Coconut milk is a subtle addition to the Thai chicken curry's spicy and flavorful sauce, enhanced with perfectly cooked carrots, peppers and potatoes. Rice is served on the side, along with two finger-size, crunchy egg rolls and a sweet and hot pepper sauce for dipping. The abundant fresh vegetables were also welcome in Boondocks' bihon guisado, or thin vermicelli noodles stir-fried with pork, chicken and shrimp. For a special treat, try the coconut macadamia shrimp, deep-fried just enough that the coconut coating is crisp, while the shrimp is sweet and tender. It can be ordered as an appetizer off the Filipino menu ($4.50 for a plate of four shrimp), or off the regular menu, served with rice and fresh spring rolls, for $7.95. Evangelista, a Filipino native who moved to Salt Lake 18 years ago, said the restaurant is a product of his and his son's passion for food and cooking, and of culinary influences from the Western world, the Indo-Malayan culture, and Southeast Asia and India. The result is intriguing flavors using a wide variety of spices
and chiles, coconut milk, lean meats and fresh produce. It is
a delectable
taste
of the South Pacific in a little haven in downtown Salt Lake City. Boondocks Pacific Grill & Cafe
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