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Bennett's Hides Its Barbecue In the 'Burbs | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 10/19/2001 | |
| SANDY -- You will be forgiven if you haven't heard of Bennett's Barbecue. This fledgling chain (12 stores nationwide), launched in 1985 by Texan Bennett Shotwell, moved into Utah six years ago with one franchise. It did so poorly, the company reclaimed it with an eye on rehabilitation. Whether that treatment will be successful remains to be seen, but it will be an uphill battle. The restaurant is in an awkward location, in the southwest corner of the South Towne Mall parking lot. Don't look for it on 9000 South; it is hidden behind buildings lining that street. Placing a restaurant in a sea of asphalt behind a couple of other chain restaurants feels like poor planning. And while Bennett's offers decent hickory-smoked meats, there is little else to distinguish it from other barbecue places in town, except that it has no competition in the immediate vicinity. When inconsistent service is factored in, Bennett's is reduced to an average, suburban parking lot restaurant. Service in a barbecue place is expected to be casual. But when the server prefers flirting with co-workers to taking orders and delivering the checks, diners conclude that nobody cares about their business and, most likely, won't return. If they do, they could get lucky. On a second visit, for example, a different server didn't miss a cue: When we couldn't decide what to order, he checked back frequently, refilled drinks promptly and made sure everyone was happy. The restaurant itself is comfortable, done in a rustic, Texas cowboy style. The wood floor is perfect for catching shells from a giant barrel of roasted peanuts near the bar, surrounded by suspended televisions usually tuned to a sporting event. The booths are large and comfortable, with tables covered by easy-clean vinyl cloths in a checkered pattern. Cowboy boots and a saddle-mounted bar stool add a bit of fun. Bennett's has a nice patio but the view, of course, is asphalt jungle. Barbecue at Bennett's is done the Texas way: slow smoked over hickory wood. This imparts a deep, smoky flavor to the meat. But the beef brisket and pork in the Chuckwagon combo plate ($13.99), which also comes with smoked chicken, pork ribs and sausage ($12.50), seemed to have lost precious moisture in the process. The chicken was moist, but didn't have the same rich flavor as the meat. It just tasted like smoke. But the sausage was full-flavored and spicy. Baby back ribs ($11.99 for a half slab) were a better choice as they were tender, moist and messy with Bennett's sweet, tangy sauce. One nice feature: You can sample any of the meats before ordering them. (They also claim that diners can do lunch in 15 minutes because there is always a bountiful supply of meat on the smoker.) Barbecue dinners are served with crisp-toasted garlic bread, traditional cole slaw with a sweet mayonnaise dressing and a choice of beans, baked potato and French fries. The beans are sweet and rich because they are mixed with shredded meat. It's difficult not to go into calorie overdrive when dining at Bennett's. Here's another dish that will destroy your diet: appetizer potato skins loaded with saucy, chopped beef and topped with cheese ($5.99). Sour cream is served on the side, but it helps mellow the intense flavor of the meat. The hamburgers are excellent and oversized (half-pound), served on a quality bun with onion, tomato, lettuce and thick-cut fries. The char-grilled version had the unmistakable smoky flavor of fat dripped on a hot fire. Bennett's also has a large menu of salads ($2.99 to $8.50) and sandwiches that feature its smoked meats, plus several steaks and grilled chicken items. Vegetarians won't find much beyond a salad or two and fat-laden appetizers. The menu is what it is: a meat lover's paradise. If you're struck by a craving for barbecue while shopping at the South Towne Mall, it is just a few parking stalls away. Bennett's 10600 S. 200 West, Sandy; 572-4924 Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Prices: Entrees from $6 to $18 Liquor: Yes Reservations: No Child's Menu: Yes Takeout: Yes Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: Yes Parking: Large lot Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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