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Argentine Grill: A Fine Home, Far From The Food Court | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 02/02/2001 | |
| MURRAY -- Hungry diners won't find intestines, tongue or blood sausage on the menu at the Argentine Grill, although owner Miguel Calderon loves some of those native dishes. After cooking for Utahns for 26 years, first in a Trolley Square restaurant and then at the ZCMI Center food court, Calderon knows what his customers like. His menu features Argentine dishes made from foods Americans already love: steaks, pork chops, lamb, shrimp and the pasta that Italians brought with them to Argentina when they fled the devastation of World War II. Several years ago, Calderon finally found what he considers a proper home for his cuisine -- a renovated historic house that offers a great deal more atmosphere than a mall. The two-story building, set back from busy 900 East, has definite curb appeal with its peaked roof, quaint caf curtains and towering cottonwood trees. The rooms are small, giving the place a European feel. White cloths cover the tables, all of which sport a small Argentine flag. The ambience is appealing, despite the space heater positioned near the door of the garden room, which at one time was probably a porch. It is a good match for this refined comfort food, whether it is rack of lamb coated with Dijon mustard and a pistachio crust ($22.95) or the meaty mixed grill ($19.75). All dinners come with a large house salad, mixed greens tossed with chopped red cabbage and dressed with a creamy, slightly sweet dressing that has garlicky zing. Everything at the Argentine Grill comes in hearty portions, including the dense homemade rolls served with an oil dip deliciously flavored with garlic, herbs and cheese. Consider the mixed grill, for example, which is almost too much for one plate: a flavorful short rib, a small top sirloin steak wrapped in bacon, two baby back pork ribs, a small piece of boneless chicken, a piece of chorizo sausage and a beef empanada. This is a good sampling of Argentine meat dishes, each of them nicely seasoned. The grill's empanadas, with their zesty ground beef filling and hefty pastry cover, are excellent and can be ordered as an appetizer. But expect everything to be well-done; nobody will ask how you like your steak. It would be nice to be asked, but the servers seem young and inexperienced, although they are nice. The mixed grill is so substantial it could easily feed two people. But the disincentive is a steep $5 charge for splitting dinners, something Calderon should rethink. There are several items on the must-try list at the Argentine Grill. The appetizer sampler ($12.50) includes an empanada, grilled shrimp (unless the grill is out of shrimp, in which case you will get another empanada), a couple of outstanding crab cakes and cauliflower cakes, which are fried dumplings with a creamy vegetable filling that will appeal even to people who think they hate cauliflower. Pasta is good here, especially the house made canelone ($17.95), which is stuffed with spinach, mushrooms and three cheeses, then draped with a creamy b'chamel sauce and romano cheese. Tender noquis, potato pasta dumplings the Italians call gnocchi, are dressed with either basil pesto or a light tomato sauce and asiago cheese ($16.95) or can be ordered with chicken ($18.50) or shrimp ($20.50). On some evenings, Calderon offers a "tour of Argentina" special that includes canelone, noquis and a thin-cut sirloin steak marinated in eggs, parsley, garlic and spices and baked. It is worth trying. A large part of the grill's charm is Calderon himself. He obviously loves people and enjoys feeding them. He is happy to show visitors his collection of Argentine wine and recommend a bottle to complement their dinner. Reservations are a good idea because the grill is small; if you drop by without one, Calderon, being the gracious host that he is, will do his best to seat you. But he will be honest enough to warn you that things might move slowly. All of Calderon's hard work has paid off with the Argentine Grill, which offers a little taste of South America at reasonable prices. The only thing that would make it better is something like blood sausage. Maybe every diner wouldn't try it, but that's the beauty of an ethnic restaurant: It lets you step outside the cultural comfort zone, if only for an evening. Argentine Grill 6055 S. 900 East, Murray Phone: 265-0205 Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Prices: Entrees from $17 to $25 Liquor: Full bar, wine list Reservations: Recommended Child's Menu: No Takeout: Yes Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: Yes Parking: On site lot Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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