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Ex-Saloon Is Now A Cosmopolitan Cafe | |
| By Anne Wilson -- Special To The Tribune | 08/24/2001 | |
| PARK CITY -- The historic address 350 Main, once the home of a mining town saloon, is now a showcase for the talents of Michael LeClerc. Chef LeClerc, who has a healthy case of wanderlust, has eaten his way through Central America, Europe, Thailand, India and the Hawaiian Islands. He liked much of what he tasted. Add those favorite cooking styles and flavors to what he learned at the Culinary Institute of America, and the result is an eclectic menu ranging from tender venison sauced with a blackberry-shiitake mushroom jus ($26), to an appetizer "tower" ($10). Its sushi-grade fish on a wasabi aioli landscape will tempt diners to lick the plate. Resist that temptation. Despite its saloon hall roots, 350 Main is not a plate-licking kind of place. White tablecloths, original artwork and judicious use of green marble give it an elegant feel, while cafe curtains and a striped awning are casual counterpoints. Suits and resort shorts are equally at home. Since opening the restaurant in 1995 as 350 Main Seafood & Oyster Co., owners Aaron and Susan Hoffman and Jeff Ward revamped the 350 Main concept in favor of a more diverse menu. Regular customers mourned the loss of the 350 Main oysters, but there is enough on this menu to keep most diners entertained, especially on summer weekend when LeClerc presents themed menus taken from his travels. During August, the theme is Thailand (September is Provence), with a priced fixed ($25), four-course menu that made liberal use of fruit, seafood and southeast Asian spices. At that price, the meal was a steal, because LeClerc doesn't skimp on ingredients or creativity, even on a first-course "amuse" -- several delicious bites of shrimp and tender octopus in a fresh tomato sauce that had a mild bite. Of the appetizer choices, a shrimp and asparagus "Napoleon" sounded the most intriguing. It came on the plate as a trio of fried won ton skins sandwiching shellfish and asparagus, with a pool of cool green avocado coulis as the backdrop. While it had to be disassembled to be eaten, what a delightful chore it was. An entree of Thai seafood stew was just as complex. Colorful and slightly spicy, a broth flavored with red curry, lime and coconut was studded with mussels, clams, white fish, lobster, carrots and green pepper. It was richly flavored, but still light enough for a warm summer evening. The finale was a roasted banana mousse that we suspect was LeClerc's culinary version of a joke. Picture this: chunky mousse wrapped in a cookie cup and set upon a mirror smeared with bright orange passion fruit coulis and served with a shot of "ginger juice" that had the effect of reveille on the taste buds. The punch line was two toasted "coquitos," props from the film "Honey, I Shrunk the Coconuts." LeClerc's regular menu is as adventurous as his themed dinners. Pepper-crusted venison is crisp outside but tender and juicy within, with a slight gamy flavor that pairs well with the blackberry-mushroom sauce. The potato cakes sidedish was nicely seasoned but mealy; the roasted beets, simply wonderful. Every dish, even traditional ones, has a special fillip. A double-cut pork chop ($24) is topped with spinach and intense Gorgonzola cheese, though even that couldn't save the meat from drying. The New York steak ($25), accompanied by incredibly crispy fried potatoes, comes with a liberal dose of house-made Worcestershire that tastes like nothing bottled could. The summer vegetable salad ($9) is big enough to share and shouldn't be missed. Whole baby carrots and squash, tart kumquats and thinly sliced fried plantains are dressed with a basil vinaigrette and paired with morsels of mozzarella -- exotic, nutritious and delicious. Two of the best things about 350 Main are its user friendly wine list -- multiple recipient of the Spectator Award -- and its service. The staff is knowledgeable about pairing food with wine and seems to have eaten everything the chef has dreamed up, and knows how to pace a meal. Other Park City restaurants might make more noise, but 350 Main is one of the best. 350 Main Brasserie 350 Main St., Park City; 435-649-3140 Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 6 p.m. to closing Prices: Entrees from $19 to $26 Liquor: Yes Reservations: Suggested Children's Menu: Yes Takeout: Yes Wheelchair Accessible: Yes Outdoor Dining: Yes Parking: Street or city lot Credit Cards: All major Anne Wilson is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Wilson welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at wilwrite99@aol.com. |
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